The pumpkin and squash family (Cucurbita spp.) represents one of the earliest and most consequential plant domestications in the whole of human history, and one of the most remarkable, for it was accomplished not once but repeatedly, in different lands and from different wild ancestors. The story begins in the highland valleys of Mexico at least ten thousand years ago. Archaeological deposits from the Guilá Naquitz cave in the Oaxaca valley, excavated by Kent Flannery, yielded squash rind fragments dated to approximately 8000 BCE, establishing the Oaxacan highlands as the probable cradle of Cucurbita pepo, the species that would in time give rise to the field pumpkin, the summer squash, the acorn squash, the ornamental gourd, and, much later and in Italy, the courgette. The earliest growers did not cultivate these plants chiefly for their flesh, which in the wild forms was thin and bitter, but for their seeds, which are rich in oil and protein and could be dried and stored almost indefinitely against the lean season, and for the hard, durable rinds, which served as bowls, bottles, scoops, and rattles.
The genus was domesticated at least three, and perhaps four, separate times. Wholly independently of the work unfolding in highland Mexico, the peoples of the Andean foothills of Bolivia, Peru, and northern Argentina took into cultivation a different wild ancestor and produced Cucurbita maxima, the species behind the butternut and Hubbard squashes, the Japanese kabocha, and the great South American zapallo, a denser, sweeter, starchier fruit than its Mexican cousin. A third species, Cucurbita argyrosperma, the cushaw or silver-seed gourd, was domesticated separately again in Mexico, and a fourth, Cucurbita moschata, the species of the true butternut and the canonical North American pie pumpkin, has its own distinct lowland tropical origin. This record of repeated, independent domestication, from different wild populations across thousands of kilometres and thousands of years, is matched by almost no other crop on earth, and it accounts for the bewildering diversity of a family whose members range from a tender finger-length courgette to a prize pumpkin of half a tonne. What unites them all is a generous, undemanding vigour: the squashes grow fast and crop heavily in almost any warm soil, their seeds travel and replant with ease, and their flesh, seeds, flowers, and shoots are all edible, which is precisely why human beings on two continents, and then on all of them, took the plant so readily to heart.
From their Oaxacan origins the cultivars of Cucurbita pepo spread slowly northward through Mesoamerica and into the eastern woodlands of North America, carried across many generations as the third member of the Three Sisters, the companion planting of maize, beans, and squash in which the broad squash leaves shaded the soil and held its moisture. By approximately 1000 CE squash was grown from the Gulf of Mexico to the Great Lakes basin and formed a structural part of the food systems of dozens of indigenous nations, whilst far to the south the Andean Cucurbita maxima had become a staple of the highland civilisations that culminated in the Inca. For ten thousand years the squash was an exclusively American plant, and the world beyond the two American continents knew nothing of it.
That changed with the voyages of Columbus. When Spanish ships began returning from the Caribbean in the 1490s, pumpkins and squashes were amongst the very first American plants to reach Europe, and their adoption was extraordinarily swift, far swifter than that of the tomato or the potato, which were long mistrusted. Within a decade squashes were growing in Iberian gardens, and within fifty years of first contact they had spread to Italy, France, the Low Countries, the German lands, and the Ottoman court at Istanbul, slipping easily into kitchens that already understood gourds and melons and welcomed the new vegetable's sweetness and undemanding vigour. The Italian peninsula proved the most creative site of squash development in the whole of Europe: Italian gardeners, by the middle of the sixteenth century, had bred from C. pepo stock the slender, tender, immature summer squash, the courgette or zucchino, a vegetable that had never existed in the Americas, whilst the cooks of Mantua and Venice turned the sweet winter squash into the celebrated stuffed pasta tortelli di zucca.
From Europe, and directly from the Iberian colonial empires, the squash continued outward across the world along the trade routes of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Portuguese traders carried it to West Africa, where it entered the groundnut stews of the Guinea coast; to India, where it was absorbed into the spiced dry vegetable dishes of Bengal and the north; to China, where it became the nángguā, the 'southern melon'; and to Japan, where, acquired on the way through Southeast Asia, it became the kabocha, its very name a memory of the Cambodian port of its transit. By the eighteenth century Cucurbita species were cultivated on every inhabited continent, and the pumpkin and squash family stood as one of the most thoroughly and rapidly dispersed of all the crops of the Columbian Exchange, an American native that had made itself at home in the cooking of the entire world within a few short generations.
Few plant families span the global table as completely as Cucurbita, and fewer still offer the cook so many usable parts. In North America the pumpkin defines the very flavour of autumn: roasted, puréed, and spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove for the pie that is the sweet centrepiece of Thanksgiving, and carved hollow into the lantern of Halloween, the festival having carried the old Celtic turnip-lantern tradition onto the far larger and more obliging American squash. In Italy the zucchini is inseparable from summer cooking, shaved raw into carpaccio, battered and fried as fiori di zucca, stuffed with ricotta, or slow-cooked into pasta, whilst the sweet winter squash fills the tortelli di zucca of Mantua. In Japan the dense, sweet kabocha (Cucurbita maxima) is simmered in dashi, soy, and mirin in kabocha no nimono until it has drunk the broth completely, or fried in the lightest of tempura batters.
Across the Middle East and North Africa the squash is hollowed and stuffed with spiced lamb and rice in the kousa mahshi of the Levant, candied in syrup with tahini and walnuts in the Turkish kabak tatlısı, and braised into tagines and couscous in the Maghreb. In China, the world's largest producer of pumpkins by far, it is steamed, stewed, simmered into congee, and sweetened with red beans into a winter soup. In India it is dry-cooked with mustard seed and tempered spices into the kaddu and kumro preparations of the north and Bengal, and in West Africa it thickens and sweetens the groundnut soups of the Guinea coast, its leaves and shoots cooked as greens in their own right. The seeds are prized as highly as the flesh: ground into the pepita sauces and mole pastes of Mexico, and, most singularly, pressed in the Styrian valleys of Austria into the dark, viscous, nutty Kürbiskernöl, the roasted pumpkin-seed oil drizzled raw over soups and salads and granted European protected status. Flesh, seeds, flowers, and shoots all entering the kitchen, the squash offers more edible parts than almost any other crop, and it does so on every inhabited continent.
Historical Journey of Pumpkin & Squash
Oaxaca, Mexico — c. 8000 BCE
Neolithic farmers in the Oaxacan highlands of Mexico began selecting and cultivating wild Cucurbita pepo from the local flora, initiating one of the earliest plant domestications in human history. Archaeological deposits from the Guilá Naquitz cave, excavated by Kent Flannery, yielded rind fragments dated to approximately 8000 BCE, establishing this highland valley as the origin of the cultivated pumpkin and summer squash family. The earliest growers cultivated the plant not primarily for its flesh, which in wild forms was bitter and thin, but for the seeds: oil-rich, protein-dense, and capable of being dried and stored for months. Over successive generations, farmers selected for larger fruits with thicker, sweeter flesh, and the squash became one of the three companion crops of Mesoamerican agriculture. The Three Sisters system paired squash with corn and climbing beans in a mutualistic arrangement with a precise agricultural logic: the squash's broad leaves shaded the soil, retaining moisture and suppressing weeds; the beans fixed atmospheric nitrogen into the soil; and the corn provided vertical structure for the beans to climb. Every part of the squash entered the kitchen: seeds were ground, roasted, or pressed for oil; flesh was roasted in the coals or stewed; flowers were eaten fresh or dried; and the hardened shells of certain varieties became bowls, containers, and musical instruments. This was not a survival crop of last resort but a plant woven into ritual, cosmology, and daily sustenance across ten thousand years of Oaxacan and Mesoamerican life.
Entirely independently of the domestication unfolding in highland Mexico, the peoples of the central and northern Andes developed their own squash cultivars from a different wild ancestor: Cucurbita maxima, the species that gives rise to the butternut squash, the Hubbard squash, the Hokkaido pumpkin, and the great Andean zapallo calabaza. Genetic analysis confirms that C. maxima is phylogenetically distinct from Cucurbita pepo and was cultivated in the Andean foothills of Bolivia, Peru, and northern Argentina from approximately 4000 to 3000 BCE: a second, independent act of domestication that produced a different set of flavours and textures. The flesh of C. maxima varieties is typically denser, starchier, and sweeter than that of C. pepo; it holds its form in long-cooked stews and absorbs the flavours of the broth with particular avidity. Andean squash was cultivated in the same highland agricultural milieu as potatoes, quinoa, and maize, and formed part of the food system that sustained the civilisations that preceded and ultimately constituted the Inca Empire. Andean farmers also developed winter squash varieties with exceptionally thick skins that could be stored for months without refrigeration, providing a vital reserve during the long, cold, high-altitude dry season. The most enduring legacy of this Andean domestication is the locro de zapallo, a thick, hearty stew of squash cooked with potatoes, maize, and chilli that remains one of the most beloved winter preparations of Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, and Argentina.
By the first millennium CE, the Three Sisters agricultural system had spread from its Mesoamerican origins throughout the entire eastern woodlands of North America, from the Gulf Coast to the Great Lakes basin. It had been carried by the gradual northward migration and exchange of farming communities across several thousand years, and by 1000 CE it was firmly established among the Haudenosaunee (Iroquois Confederacy), the Huron, the Lenape, the Powhatan, and dozens of other nations. Squash played a specific and irreplaceable role in the Three Sisters: its large, horizontal leaves created a living mulch that shaded the soil, retaining moisture critical in dry summers, cooling the root zone, and suppressing competing weeds. Without squash, the system as a whole was significantly less effective. The varieties cultivated in the eastern woodlands were primarily Cucurbita pepo: acorn squash, delicata squash, and a range of field pumpkins whose dried, hardened shells became containers, musical instruments, and trade goods. Seeds were pressed for oil and dried as portable winter provisions. Communities developed a sophisticated body of practice around squash storage: certain thick-skinned varieties were harvested in autumn and kept in cool underground caches for months, bridging the winter with a reliable source of carbohydrate, vitamins, and minerals. When English settlers arrived on the northeastern coast in the early seventeenth century, this indigenous knowledge of squash cultivation and winter storage was documented in multiple settler accounts as the critical resource that prevented starvation during the first brutal winters of colonial settlement.
The pumpkin and squash entered Europe through the Spanish ports of Seville and Cádiz, receiving the ships of Columbus and his successors from the early 1490s onwards. The speed of adoption was remarkable: within a decade of the first Spanish returns, pumpkins were growing in Iberian gardens; within fifty years they had reached the Ottoman court in Istanbul via Venetian merchants, and were established across Italy, France, the Low Countries, and Central Europe. The ease of adoption was partly botanical: squash are vigorous, undemanding plants that produce abundantly in almost any climate with a warm season, and their seeds are easy to transport, share, and replant. The Ottoman court received squash seeds with particular enthusiasm, incorporating them into the tradition of dolma (stuffed vegetables) and developing a family of pumpkin desserts cooked in syrup that persist in Turkish and Middle Eastern cuisine to this day. In Germany and Central Europe, pumpkins became an autumn kitchen staple, incorporated into thick soups and as animal fodder through the winter. In England, the first botanical records describe pompions (pumpkins) growing in kitchen gardens by the 1570s. Across Europe, the new vegetable was absorbed into established culinary frameworks with barely any resistance: it cooked like the turnips and gourds that European cooks already knew, and its sweetness found immediate favour.
Through the Venetian and Genoese merchant networks that carried so many Columbian Exchange species into the eastern Mediterranean, pumpkin seed stock reached Istanbul and the broader Ottoman Empire by the mid-sixteenth century. The palace kitchens at Topkapı Sarayı adopted the new vegetable with the enthusiasm that had long characterised Ottoman culinary culture, absorbing it simultaneously into the savoury stuffed vegetable tradition and into the canon of syrup-preserved sweet preparations that constituted the dessert repertoire of the imperial table. The most enduring Ottoman pumpkin preparation is kabak tatlısı: cubed pumpkin flesh is simmered in concentrated sugar syrup until the pieces become wholly translucent and candied, then served cold with a pool of tahini and a scattering of coarsely crushed roasted walnuts. The combination of the pumpkin's concentrated sweetness, the bitterness of the sesame paste, and the warm crunch of the walnuts achieves a balance found in no other dessert tradition. Ottoman cooks also developed pumpkin soups enriched with yoghurt and finished with dried mint and a thread of chilli butter, and pumpkin böreks in which sweetened or savoury pumpkin filling is folded into sheets of yufka pastry. The spread of pumpkin cultivation through the Ottoman provincial network ensured its rapid diffusion east into Persia and south into the Levant, making the Ottoman Empire one of the great amplifiers of the Cucurbita family's global journey.
Italy's relationship with the Cucurbita family became the most creatively influential in Europe. Italian gardeners and cooks developed entirely new varieties in the decades following the Spanish introduction, most importantly the elongated, slender summer courgette (zucchini), a vegetable bred from Cucurbita pepo stock that was unknown in the Americas and wholly Italian in origin. Zucchini were selected for tenderness, thin skin, and mild flavour: harvested before the seeds harden and the skin toughens, they represent the squash at its most delicate. The same Italian horticultural tradition that developed new bean varieties (borlotti, cannellini) after the Columbian Exchange applied an equal experimental energy to squash. By the seventeenth century, the range of Cucurbita cultivars grown in Italian kitchen gardens was wider than anywhere else in the world. The flowers, fiori di zucca, entered Roman cooking as a fritter tradition: dipped in a light batter and fried in olive oil, they are consumed across Rome and Lazio to this day and have never left the Roman table. The winter squash varieties adopted by Italian cuisine included the ribbed zucca barucca of Venice, which became the filling for tortelli di zucca, the stuffed pasta of Mantua. That filling combines sweetened squash flesh, crumbled amaretti biscuit, mostarda di frutta, and grated Parmesan in a balance of sweet, savoury, sharp, and nutty flavour that is simultaneously one of the most unusual and most characteristic preparations of northern Italian cuisine.
The Japanese pumpkin, known universally as kabocha, arrived via one of the more distinctive supply chains in food history. Portuguese traders, who had established contact with Japan in 1543 and maintained trading posts along the Japanese coast, are recorded as bringing a dense, sweet-fleshed squash to Japanese ports around the mid-sixteenth century. The variety had been acquired during Portuguese trading voyages through Southeast Asia, where squash cultivars had already naturalised after arriving from the Americas; the Japanese name kabocha is a corruption of the Portuguese pronunciation of Camboja (Cambodia), preserving the memory of the transit point. The Japanese response was characteristic of the culture's approach to foreign ingredients: the vegetable was not merely adopted but integrated into native cooking philosophy and transformed into preparations that became entirely Japanese in character. Kabocha no nimono (simmered kabocha) is the canonical preparation: the squash is cut into irregular wedges, leaving some skin on for structural support, then simmered in a careful balance of dashi (the stock of kombu and dried bonito), mirin (sweet sake), soy sauce, and a measure of sake. The cooking continues until the dense, starchy flesh has absorbed the broth completely and collapses at the edges into a soft, yielding texture. The natural sweetness of kabocha is higher than most Western pumpkin varieties, and in combination with the deep umami of the dashi, the finished dish achieves a flavour of extraordinary depth and restraint. Kabocha tempura, the second canonical preparation, battered and deep-fried at high temperature with the thinnest possible coating, expresses the squash's sweetness with complete directness.
Portuguese trading vessels operating out of Macau, the settlement granted to Portugal by the Ming Dynasty in 1557, introduced Cucurbita squash to the southern coast of China in the decades following their establishment on the Pearl River Delta. The pumpkin arrived into a culinary culture with a profound and long-developed tradition of cooking gourds and melon vegetables, and it was accordingly absorbed with speed and creative confidence. The Chinese name nángguā (南瓜, literally 'southern melon') preserves both the direction of arrival and the conceptual frame within which Chinese cooks understood the new vegetable: as a member of the melon and gourd family, related to the bitter gourd, bottle gourd, and winter melon already established in Chinese cuisine for thousands of years. Chinese cooks developed a range of pumpkin preparations quite distinct from anything in Europe or the Americas. A sweetened tong sui (sweet soup) of pumpkin cooked with red adzuki beans became a canonical Cantonese winter preparation, consumed warm for its nourishing properties in the cold months. Steamed pumpkin with a simple dressing of soy sauce, sesame oil, and spring onion became a standard home preparation across the southern provinces. Pumpkin congee (nángguā zhōu), in which cubed pumpkin dissolves into the cooking porridge and sweetens the rice from within, became a comfort preparation across the Guangdong and Fujian kitchen. China's adoption of the pumpkin was so thorough that by the nineteenth century it was cultivated from Guangdong to the Yellow River valley, and China today accounts for approximately seventy per cent of global pumpkin production.
Portuguese traders introduced Cucurbita squash to the western coast of India through their settlements at Goa, Diu, and Kozhikode during the late sixteenth century, and the pumpkin was absorbed into Indian cooking with a facility explained by its resemblance, in cooking behaviour, to the native gourd and marrow species that Indian cooks already knew intimately. In North India, under the Mughal court and across the Gangetic plain, the preparation that became canonical was kaddu ki sabzi: pumpkin cubed and dry-cooked in a heavy pan with a tempering of cumin seeds, dried red chilli, asafoetida, and turmeric, then finished with crushed dried fenugreek leaf (kasuri methi) and amchur (dried mango powder) for a characteristic sharpness that balanced the pumpkin's natural sweetness. In Bengal, the preparation that took root was kumro chorchori: a dry vegetable preparation of pumpkin and potato cooked in mustard oil with a tempering of mustard seed, kalonji (nigella), and split green chilli, coloured deeply with turmeric. In Kerala and Tamil Nadu, pumpkin entered the tradition of kootu (a dry, coconut-thickened vegetable preparation) and of the tamarind-soured sambar. The pumpkin integrated into Indian cooking so completely that its American origins were largely forgotten: it was received as simply another gourd, a category of vegetable for which Indian cuisine had been developing spiced preparations for thousands of years.
Portuguese trading vessels working the Guinea Coast and the Gold Coast in the late sixteenth century carried New World crops eastward from their South American colonies, and pumpkin was among the Cucurbita species that became established in coastal West Africa by the early seventeenth century. The timing of its arrival was significant: West African culinary traditions already incorporated the seeds of native cucurbit relatives as a flavouring and thickening agent in soups and stews, and the New World pumpkin slipped into this framework with minimal disruption. The flesh, slow-cooked with groundnuts, tomatoes, onion, and scotch bonnet chilli in the clay pot tradition of the Guinea Coast, became one of the characteristic preparations of the Ghanaian and coastal West African kitchen. Pumpkin was adopted specifically into the Akan tradition of groundnut soup (nkwan), in which the pumpkin's starchy sweetness balanced the richness of the groundnut paste and the heat of the chilli. The leaves and young vine shoots of the pumpkin plant also entered the culinary tradition in their own right, cooked in palm oil with dried fish and crayfish by a technique identical to that applied to native leafy greens, requiring no cultural translation. Over the following two centuries, pumpkin became permanently embedded in the food systems of coastal West Africa, reaching inland communities through agricultural diffusion along established trade routes.
The Pilgrim settlement at Plymouth Colony in 1620 occupies a central place in North American food mythology as the founding moment of the pumpkin pie tradition, but the deeper reality is a story of indigenous knowledge transfer that saved the settlers from starvation. The Wampanoag peoples of the Plymouth Bay area had cultivated pumpkins and squash for many generations before English settlers arrived, and the exchange of squash cultivation techniques and seed stock between Wampanoag farmers and the colonists is documented in multiple settler accounts from the first years of the colony. Edward Winslow's record of 1621 describes how the Wampanoag taught the settlers to plant squash in mounds alongside corn and beans, and how to store the dried seeds and cured winter squash through the cold months. The pumpkin became not merely a dietary supplement for the Plymouth colonists but a genuine survival crop during years when wheat cultivation failed and imported provisions ran short. Early colonial recipes describe pumpkin roasted directly in the coals, mashed with butter and cream, or stewed with spices in preparations that were the direct ancestors of the pumpkin pie. The Thanksgiving pumpkin pie crystallised over the following two centuries as a cultural institution, carrying within it the preserved memory of the crop that made the survival of English settlement in New England possible: a food that was at once indigenous knowledge, colonial adaptation, and the beginning of a distinctly North American culinary tradition.
Pumpkin arrived in France through two converging routes: the Atlantic ports of Bordeaux and Nantes received it from Iberian growers in the early sixteenth century, whilst the southern regions of Provence and Languedoc absorbed it through overland trade with Italy and the Ligurian coast. The French culinary response was shaped by the logic of the existing regional kitchen: in Provence, pumpkin entered the tradition of slow-cooked vegetable soups and gratins that made use of the autumn abundance of the kitchen garden. The preparation that became the most enduring French pumpkin dish is soupe de potiron: the flesh is roasted or simmered until soft, then blended to a smooth velouté with butter and cream and seasoned with nutmeg, producing a soup of deep orange colour and rich, sweet flavour that has remained on the French domestic table for three centuries without significant alteration. French horticulturalists of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries also developed distinctive local varieties suited to the Atlantic and Mediterranean climates: the potimarron (a small, chestnut-flavoured variety of Cucurbita maxima with a distinctive round form) became particularly prized in French market gardening from the nineteenth century onwards. The gratin de potiron, in which pumpkin is baked with crème fraîche, Gruyère, and garlic until the surface is golden and the flesh has absorbed the cream entirely, represents a second great French pumpkin preparation: a dish of the Savoy and Dauphiné that is at once rustic and refined.
The most distinctive chapter in the European pumpkin story unfolded in the alpine and sub-alpine valleys of Styria (Steiermark), the southernmost province of the Habsburg Empire, over the course of the eighteenth century. Pumpkins had grown in Styrian kitchen gardens since the mid-sixteenth century, as they did across Central Europe; but Styrian farmers observed that certain plants produced seeds with unusually thin, almost transparent hulls, the result of a natural mutation in Cucurbita pepo. Over successive generations, farmers selected for this hull-less characteristic with increasing precision, eventually stabilising the variety now known as the Styrian hull-less pumpkin (C. pepo var. styriaca). The commercial significance of this development was considerable. Ordinary pumpkin seeds must be dried, roasted, and shelled before pressing; the Styrian variety's hull-less seeds could be processed and pressed directly, yielding, after roasting, an oil of wholly singular character. Styrian pumpkin seed oil (Kürbiskernöl) is produced by roasting the seeds in large rotating drums before cold pressing. Its colour is so deep a green-black that a thin ribbon appears red against light; a thick pool is nearly impenetrable to the eye. Its flavour combines the warmth of roasted nuts, a deep and specific earthiness, and a sweetness that is immediately recognisable and irreducible to any other ingredient. The oil is never heated; it is always used raw, drizzled over finished preparations at the point of service. Its canonical use is on Kürbiscremesuppe, the smooth, spiced pumpkin cream soup of the Styrian autumn: a spiral of near-black oil drawn across the pale orange surface at the moment of service creates one of the most visually arresting presentations in the Central European kitchen. Styrian pumpkin seed oil was granted Protected Designation of Origin status by the European Union in 1996; Styria produces approximately three thousand tonnes of seeds annually for pressing.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1750 CEStyria (Steiermark), Austrian Empire
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1750 CE
8000 BCE1545 CE1590 CE1750 CE
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Pumpkin & Squash
Cucurbita spp.
VegetablesCucurbits
🌍Origin
The Americas — c. 8000 BCE
🌱Domestication
The pumpkin and squash family (Cucurbita spp.) represents one of the earliest and most consequential plant domestications in the whole of human history, and one of the most remarkable, for it was accomplished not once but repeatedly, in different lands and from different wild ancestors. The story begins in the highland valleys of Mexico at least ten thousand years ago. Archaeological deposits from the Guilá Naquitz cave in the Oaxaca valley, excavated by Kent Flannery, yielded squash rind fragments dated to approximately 8000 BCE, establishing the Oaxacan highlands as the probable cradle of Cucurbita pepo, the species that would in time give rise to the field pumpkin, the summer squash, the acorn squash, the ornamental gourd, and, much later and in Italy, the courgette. The earliest growers did not cultivate these plants chiefly for their flesh, which in the wild forms was thin and bitter, but for their seeds, which are rich in oil and protein and could be dried and stored almost indefinitely against the lean season, and for the hard, durable rinds, which served as bowls, bottles, scoops, and rattles.
The genus was domesticated at least three, and perhaps four, separate times. Wholly independently of the work unfolding in highland Mexico, the peoples of the Andean foothills of Bolivia, Peru, and northern Argentina took into cultivation a different wild ancestor and produced Cucurbita maxima, the species behind the butternut and Hubbard squashes, the Japanese kabocha, and the great South American zapallo, a denser, sweeter, starchier fruit than its Mexican cousin. A third species, Cucurbita argyrosperma, the cushaw or silver-seed gourd, was domesticated separately again in Mexico, and a fourth, Cucurbita moschata, the species of the true butternut and the canonical North American pie pumpkin, has its own distinct lowland tropical origin. This record of repeated, independent domestication, from different wild populations across thousands of kilometres and thousands of years, is matched by almost no other crop on earth, and it accounts for the bewildering diversity of a family whose members range from a tender finger-length courgette to a prize pumpkin of half a tonne. What unites them all is a generous, undemanding vigour: the squashes grow fast and crop heavily in almost any warm soil, their seeds travel and replant with ease, and their flesh, seeds, flowers, and shoots are all edible, which is precisely why human beings on two continents, and then on all of them, took the plant so readily to heart.
⛵Global Voyage
From their Oaxacan origins the cultivars of Cucurbita pepo spread slowly northward through Mesoamerica and into the eastern woodlands of North America, carried across many generations as the third member of the Three Sisters, the companion planting of maize, beans, and squash in which the broad squash leaves shaded the soil and held its moisture. By approximately 1000 CE squash was grown from the Gulf of Mexico to the Great Lakes basin and formed a structural part of the food systems of dozens of indigenous nations, whilst far to the south the Andean Cucurbita maxima had become a staple of the highland civilisations that culminated in the Inca. For ten thousand years the squash was an exclusively American plant, and the world beyond the two American continents knew nothing of it.
That changed with the voyages of Columbus. When Spanish ships began returning from the Caribbean in the 1490s, pumpkins and squashes were amongst the very first American plants to reach Europe, and their adoption was extraordinarily swift, far swifter than that of the tomato or the potato, which were long mistrusted. Within a decade squashes were growing in Iberian gardens, and within fifty years of first contact they had spread to Italy, France, the Low Countries, the German lands, and the Ottoman court at Istanbul, slipping easily into kitchens that already understood gourds and melons and welcomed the new vegetable's sweetness and undemanding vigour. The Italian peninsula proved the most creative site of squash development in the whole of Europe: Italian gardeners, by the middle of the sixteenth century, had bred from C. pepo stock the slender, tender, immature summer squash, the courgette or zucchino, a vegetable that had never existed in the Americas, whilst the cooks of Mantua and Venice turned the sweet winter squash into the celebrated stuffed pasta tortelli di zucca.
From Europe, and directly from the Iberian colonial empires, the squash continued outward across the world along the trade routes of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Portuguese traders carried it to West Africa, where it entered the groundnut stews of the Guinea coast; to India, where it was absorbed into the spiced dry vegetable dishes of Bengal and the north; to China, where it became the nángguā, the 'southern melon'; and to Japan, where, acquired on the way through Southeast Asia, it became the kabocha, its very name a memory of the Cambodian port of its transit. By the eighteenth century Cucurbita species were cultivated on every inhabited continent, and the pumpkin and squash family stood as one of the most thoroughly and rapidly dispersed of all the crops of the Columbian Exchange, an American native that had made itself at home in the cooking of the entire world within a few short generations.
🍽Modern Culinary Role
Few plant families span the global table as completely as Cucurbita, and fewer still offer the cook so many usable parts. In North America the pumpkin defines the very flavour of autumn: roasted, puréed, and spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove for the pie that is the sweet centrepiece of Thanksgiving, and carved hollow into the lantern of Halloween, the festival having carried the old Celtic turnip-lantern tradition onto the far larger and more obliging American squash. In Italy the zucchini is inseparable from summer cooking, shaved raw into carpaccio, battered and fried as fiori di zucca, stuffed with ricotta, or slow-cooked into pasta, whilst the sweet winter squash fills the tortelli di zucca of Mantua. In Japan the dense, sweet kabocha (Cucurbita maxima) is simmered in dashi, soy, and mirin in kabocha no nimono until it has drunk the broth completely, or fried in the lightest of tempura batters.
Across the Middle East and North Africa the squash is hollowed and stuffed with spiced lamb and rice in the kousa mahshi of the Levant, candied in syrup with tahini and walnuts in the Turkish kabak tatlısı, and braised into tagines and couscous in the Maghreb. In China, the world's largest producer of pumpkins by far, it is steamed, stewed, simmered into congee, and sweetened with red beans into a winter soup. In India it is dry-cooked with mustard seed and tempered spices into the kaddu and kumro preparations of the north and Bengal, and in West Africa it thickens and sweetens the groundnut soups of the Guinea coast, its leaves and shoots cooked as greens in their own right. The seeds are prized as highly as the flesh: ground into the pepita sauces and mole pastes of Mexico, and, most singularly, pressed in the Styrian valleys of Austria into the dark, viscous, nutty Kürbiskernöl, the roasted pumpkin-seed oil drizzled raw over soups and salads and granted European protected status. Flesh, seeds, flowers, and shoots all entering the kitchen, the squash offers more edible parts than almost any other crop, and it does so on every inhabited continent.
