Italian Pumpkin Gnocchi (Gnocchi di zucca)

Northern Italian pumpkin gnocchi with sage brown butter

Origin: Mantua & Veneto, Northern Italy

From the journey of Pumpkin & Squash.

Gnocchi di zucca is a speciality of Mantua (Mantova) and the surrounding Po Valley in northern Italy: a region where the arrival of American squash and pumpkins in the 16th century immediately found a home in the rich, butter-and-cream cooking tradition of the Gonzaga court. The Gonzaga duchy of Mantua was one of the most sophisticated culinary courts of the Italian Renaissance, and pumpkin gnocchi became part of its legacy. The combination of pumpkin sweetness, the slight bitterness of sage, and the nuttiness of brown butter is one of the most harmonious flavour combinations in all of Italian cooking. Unlike potato gnocchi, which require careful handling to avoid toughness, pumpkin gnocchi are more forgiving: the natural moisture of the squash creates a softer, more yielding dough. The challenge is the opposite: keeping them from becoming too soft and sticky. Roasting rather than boiling the squash removes excess moisture and concentrates the flavour, giving these gnocchi a more intense, golden character.

Ingredients

Main

  • 800 g butternut squash or Italian zucca (Cucurbita maxima), halved

Dough

  • 150 g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 1 whole egg
  • 50 g Parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve
  • 0.5 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

Seasoning

  • 1 tsp salt

Sauce

  • 100 g unsalted butter
  • 12 whole fresh sage leaves

Finish

  • 1 pinch flaky sea salt, for finishing

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 200°C (390°F). Place squash halves cut-side down on a baking tray. Roast for 40–50 minutes until completely tender. Allow to cool, then scoop out the flesh and spread on a clean tea towel. Wrap and squeeze firmly to extract as much moisture as possible.
  2. Weigh the squeezed squash; you want approximately 400 g of dry flesh. Mash until smooth. Season with salt and nutmeg. Mix in the egg and Parmesan.
  3. Add flour gradually, mixing gently. Stop when the dough comes together and is soft but not sticky. It will be softer than potato gnocchi dough. Do not overwork.
  4. Flour your work surface generously. Roll pieces of dough into logs about 2 cm thick. Cut into 2 cm lengths. Roll each piece over a fork or gnocchi board to create ridges, or leave plain.
  5. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook gnocchi in batches; they are done when they float to the surface, plus 30 seconds more. Remove with a slotted spoon.
  6. While the gnocchi cook, make the sage butter: melt butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add sage leaves. Cook, swirling, until the butter turns golden-brown and smells nutty (beurre noisette). Remove from heat before it darkens further.
  7. Add the drained gnocchi directly to the sage butter skillet over medium heat. Toss gently for 1 minute to coat. Serve immediately with extra Parmesan and flaky salt.

Notes

Gnocchi di zucca in Mantua are sometimes served with a variation: mostarda di Mantova (candied fruit in mustard syrup) on the side, a sweet-sharp counterpoint to the sage butter that is one of the great, slightly eccentric culinary combinations of northern Italian cooking. Try it.

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