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pounded cassava leaves cooked down with pork until dark and dense, the Malagasy dish that tastes of the plant rather than the pot
Origin: Antananarivo & the Malagasy Highlands
From the journey of Cassava.
Ravitoto means pounded leaves, and that is exactly the process: cassava leaves are pounded in a wooden mortar to a coarse dark green mash before they go anywhere near a pot. Pounding rather than chopping is what gives the dish its particular dense, almost meaty texture, and a Malagasy cook will say that a blender does not produce the same thing. It is cooked with pork, usually fatty belly or shoulder, and the pork is the point as much as the leaf. Madagascar's pig population is large and pork carries none of the restrictions it does across much of the region, so ravitoto sy henakisoa, ravitoto with pork, is the everyday version rather than a variant. In the coastal provinces it is often finished with coconut milk, which the highlands regard as a different dish altogether. Cassava reached Madagascar from the Portuguese Atlantic trade by way of the Mozambique coast, and it took hold as it did across the whole region: it grows on poor soil, tolerates drought, and can be left in the ground until wanted. What is less often noticed is that the island eats the leaf as seriously as the root, which is true of Central Africa and of very little of the Americas where the plant came from. It is eaten with vary, plain rice, which Malagasy people consume in greater quantity per head than almost any nation on earth, and often with a bowl of ranovola, the toasted rice water served as a drink at the end of a meal.
Cassava leaves are never eaten raw or undercooked, and the initial forty-five-minute boil is a safety step as well as a texture one. Pounded frozen leaf is far better here than anything chopped, because the texture is the dish. Fatty pork is wanted rather than lean; the rendered fat is what carries the leaves. The finished ravitoto should be dark, dense, and dry rather than soupy.
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