Casabe

The Taíno cassava flatbread of the Antilles, the grated root pressed bone dry and baked on a griddle into a brittle white disc that keeps for months and was the ship's bread of the Caribbean

Origin: Hispaniola and the Greater Antilles

From the journey of Cassava.

Casabe is the oldest bread still eaten in the Americas. The Taíno of Hispaniola, Cuba, and Puerto Rico grew cassava in raised earth mounds called conucos, grated the roots on boards studded with stone chips, pressed them in woven tubes, sieved the dry crumb, and baked it on a clay griddle, the burén, into a large thin disc. It contains cassava and, at most, salt. The bread has no fat and almost no moisture, and that is the point of it. Left dry it keeps for months in a tropical climate without going mouldy or weevilly, which wheat biscuit emphatically does not, and within a generation of contact the Spanish had adopted it wholesale as the standard provision of their Caribbean fleets. Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo described its making in detail in the 1530s. The Spanish word for it, cazabe, is where English gets the name of the plant. It is eaten softened rather than dry: dipped in soup, moistened with water or oil, spread with garlic, or laid under a stew to collapse into it. In the Dominican Republic it is served beside sancocho as a matter of course, and in Venezuela and Colombia the same bread appears under the same name across the Orinoco country. It has never stopped being made, and in 2024 the knowledge and practices around casabe were inscribed on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. Very few foods can claim an unbroken line of production from before European contact to a supermarket shelf.

Ingredients

Root

  • 1.5 kg sweet cassava (yuca), peeled and cored

Seasoning

  • 1 tsp fine salt, optional

Method

  1. Peel the cassava, taking off both the thin brown skin and the thick pinkish layer beneath it, and pull out the woody central cord.
  2. Grate the root finely, by hand or in a food processor, into a wet pulp.
  3. Wrap the pulp in a double layer of muslin and wring it out hard over a bowl. Then press it under a weight for at least thirty minutes and wring it again. It should end up as a dry, crumbly cake.
  4. Rub the pressed cake through a coarse sieve so that it falls as fine loose crumbs. Mix through the salt if using. Do not add water, and do not knead: there is no dough here.
  5. Heat a dry heavy frying pan or flat griddle over a medium heat. Set an 18 to 20 cm metal ring in the pan, or work freehand, and scatter the crumbs evenly inside it to a depth of about 5 mm. Press down lightly with a spatula.
  6. Cook for four to five minutes without moving it. The crumbs will fuse into a solid round and the underside will speckle pale gold. Lift the ring, slide a spatula underneath, and flip.
  7. Cook the second side for three to four minutes, pressing gently, until it is dry and firm and lightly coloured. Cool on a rack; it crisps as it cools.
  8. Repeat with the remaining crumbs. Store in a dry place; it keeps for weeks.

Notes

Commercial casabe is sold in Dominican, Venezuelan, and Colombian shops in large thin discs and in small rounds. It is entirely respectable to buy it. A thicker casabe, up to a centimetre, is made in parts of Venezuela and eaten as a more substantial bread; the thin brittle version is the Antillean one. A sweet version exists in the Dominican Republic, brushed with coconut milk and sugar and toasted, and is eaten as a snack rather than as bread. The pressed liquid should be discarded here, since with sweet cassava there is not enough starch worth recovering, but the white sediment can be dried for tapioca if you have pressed a large batch.

The Gastrographer

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Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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