Zucchini alla scapece

Neapolitan fried zucchini marinated in vinegar, garlic and mint

Origin: Kingdom of Naples, Southern Italy

From the journey of Zucchini.

Scapece (the technique of frying vegetables or fish and then marinating them in vinegar with garlic and aromatics) is one of the oldest cooking methods that survives intact in southern Italian cuisine. Its name descends from the Latin ex apicio, meaning 'in the manner of Apicius', the Roman gastronome whose first-century cookbook De Re Coquinaria contains numerous preparations of fried fish and vegetables preserved in vinegar with herbs. The technique was ancient even in Apicius's day: the combination of frying and acid preservation was a means of extending the shelf life of food in a pre-refrigeration world while simultaneously creating a complex flavour through the interplay of fat, acid, and aromatic herbs. In Neapolitan cooking, zucchini alla scapece has been prepared with virtually no variation for at least four centuries. Thin-sliced zucchini are fried in olive oil until golden and beginning to char at the edges; still hot from the pan, they are layered into a dish with raw garlic slivers and copious fresh mint, then doused with white wine vinegar and left to rest for hours or overnight. The result is a transformation: the vinegar softens and penetrates the fried zucchini, the garlic matures from raw pungency to mellow sweetness, the mint perfumes the whole dish, and the olive oil emulsifies with the vinegar into a loose, fragrant dressing. Served at room temperature as an antipasto, zucchini alla scapece is one of the finest summer starters in any cuisine; ancient, simple, and irreducible.

Ingredients

Main

600 g zucchini (about 4 medium), sliced into 3–4mm rounds

Frying

100 ml olive oil, for frying (not the best oil, a decent but not precious one)

Marinade

3 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced
4 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 large handful fresh mint leaves, roughly torn

Seasoning

1 tsp fine salt

To Finish

good extra virgin olive oil, to finish

Method

Slice the zucchini into rounds 3–4mm thick; thin enough to become tender quickly in the oil, thick enough to hold their shape and not disintegrate. Lay them out on a clean surface or kitchen paper. Do not salt them first.
Heat the olive oil in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Fry the zucchini rounds in a single layer in batches, do not crowd the pan, for about 2–3 minutes per side until they are golden to deep golden at the edges and beginning to colour. Remove with a slotted spoon. Season immediately with a little salt.
As each batch comes out of the oil, layer the fried zucchini immediately into a wide, shallow serving dish. While each layer is still hot, scatter over some of the sliced garlic and torn mint.
Once all the zucchini is fried and layered in the dish with garlic and mint, pour the white wine vinegar evenly over the entire surface. Drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil over the top. Cover the dish with cling film and leave at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight in the refrigerator.

Notes

Zucchini alla scapece must be served at room temperature; remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving. Cold temperatures mute the mint and garlic fragrance. Serve as part of an antipasto spread alongside cured meats, olives, and good bread for scooping up the garlicky, vinegary juices. The dish keeps for 2–3 days refrigerated. Red wine vinegar gives a more robust flavour; apple cider vinegar is lighter and sweeter. Basil can replace mint for a different but equally traditional variation.

The Gastrographer

Name: Zucchini alla scapece
Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 20 min
Total time: 35 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: Southern Italy
Ingredients: 600 g zucchini (about 4 medium), sliced into 3–4mm rounds; 100 ml olive oil, for frying (not the best oil, a decent but not precious one); 3 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced; 4 tbsp white wine vinegar; 1 large handful fresh mint leaves, roughly torn; 1 tsp fine salt; good extra virgin olive oil, to finish

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control