Pilau wa Zanzibar

Name: Pilau wa Zanzibar
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 1 h
Total time: 1 h 30 min
Yield: 6
Cuisine: Tanzania
Ingredients: 500 g basmati or long-grain rice, washed and soaked 30 minutes; 500 g beef chuck or goat shoulder, cut into 4cm pieces; 3 large onions, thinly sliced; 5 cloves garlic, minced; 3 cm fresh ginger, grated; 1 tsp whole cumin seeds; 6 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed; 6 whole cloves; 1 tsp whole black peppercorns; 1 stick cinnamon (cassia), 8cm; 2 bay leaves; 1 tsp turmeric powder; 2 tsp pilau masala (Kenyan/Tanzanian spice blend, or garam masala); 4 tbsp neutral oil or ghee; 600 ml beef stock or water; 1.5 tsp salt

Zanzibar's festive rice of the Indian Ocean: long-grain rice cooked with whole cumin, cardamom, cloves, black pepper and cinnamon, with beef or goat braised until tender in the same pot, the onions caramelised almost to sweetness: the taste of the spice island in a single pot

Origin: Zanzibar, Tanzania (Swahili Coast)

From the journey of Rice.

Pilau is the rice of celebration on the Swahili Coast (cooked for weddings, Eid, funerals, and any gathering of importance. The word 'pilau' traces directly to the Persian 'polo') the rice-cooking tradition of the Sassanid and Safavid courts (carried to East Africa by Arab and Indian Ocean traders who had centuries of commerce with the Persian Gulf. Zanzibar's pilau has absorbed influences from all directions: the whole spice tradition of Arab cooking, the coconut and seafood flavours of the Swahili kitchen, and the earthiness of East African cooking with meat. What distinguishes Zanzibari pilau from its continental cousins is the specific spice blend: whole cumin, cardamom, cloves, black pepper and cinnamon, toasted and fried in onion and oil until the kitchen fills with the aromas of a medieval spice market) which is, of course, exactly what Zanzibar was for 700 years. Stone Town, Zanzibar's historic capital, was the hub of the Indian Ocean spice trade, and the richness of Swahili cooking reflects that history in every bite.

Ingredients

Rice

500 g basmati or long-grain rice, washed and soaked 30 minutes

Meat

500 g beef chuck or goat shoulder, cut into 4cm pieces

Aromatics

3 large onions, thinly sliced
5 cloves garlic, minced
3 cm fresh ginger, grated

Whole spices

1 tsp whole cumin seeds
6 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
6 whole cloves
1 tsp whole black peppercorns
1 stick cinnamon (cassia), 8cm
2 bay leaves

Ground spices

1 tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp pilau masala (Kenyan/Tanzanian spice blend, or garam masala)

Fat

4 tbsp neutral oil or ghee

Liquid

600 ml beef stock or water

Seasoning

1.5 tsp salt

Method

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add all the whole spices (cumin, cardamom, cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon, bay leaves) and fry, stirring, for 60–90 seconds until fragrant and sizzling.
Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring regularly, over medium heat for 15–20 minutes until deep golden brown and sweet. The onions should caramelise significantly.
Add the garlic and ginger. Fry for 2 minutes. Add the turmeric and pilau masala. Stir for 30 seconds.
Add the meat pieces. Brown well on all sides for 5–7 minutes. Add the stock (or water) and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 30–40 minutes until the meat is tender.
Drain the soaked rice and add it to the pot. The liquid level should cover the rice by about 2cm. Add a little boiling water if needed. Stir once gently to distribute the meat and spices through the rice.
Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately reduce to the lowest possible setting. Cover tightly (seal with foil under the lid for a better seal) and cook for 20–25 minutes without opening the lid.
After 25 minutes, cheque the rice: it should be fully cooked and all the liquid absorbed. If there is still visible liquid, re-cover and cook for another 5 minutes. Rest covered for 10 minutes before serving. Fluff gently with a fork and serve, making sure everyone gets some meat.

Notes

Pilau masala is a specific East African spice blend used on the Kenyan and Tanzanian coast (it typically contains cumin, black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and sometimes coriander, pre-ground together. It is available at East African and Indian grocery stores. Garam masala is an acceptable substitute but produces a subtly different flavour. The distinctive smell of Zanzibari pilau) the combination of caramelised onion, whole cumin, cardamom and cloves: is one of the most evocative aromas in all of East African cooking, and the dish is the centrepiece of any Swahili celebration.

The Gastrographer

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control