Zafrani pulao (saffron rice) is one of the great celebratory rice dishes of the Kashmiri wazwan tradition, the elaborate 36-course banquet that defines the highest expression of Kashmiri hospitality. The Kashmir Valley's Pampore fields, lying on the outskirts of Srinagar at an altitude of 1,600 metres, have produced saffron for over a thousand years: the Karewa plateau's unique combination of altitude, cold winters, alkaline soil, and the precise drainage pattern of the ancient lake bed creates conditions that produce threads of exceptional intensity and fragrance. Kashmiri saffron (known as Mongra or Lacha) is distinguished by its deeply red threads (entirely stigma, with minimal yellow style), its stronger colour yield, and a complex honey-meadow fragrance quite distinct from Iranian or Spanish saffron. In the wazwan, zafrani pulao is the final savoury rice course, its golden colour announcing abundance and celebration. The Mughal court adopted the Kashmiri saffron tradition enthusiastically: Emperor Akbar maintained saffron gardens at Pampur, and the pulao technique (absorption-method rice finished with saffron milk and ghee) became the foundation of all Mughal rice cookery.
Ingredients
Rice
300 g aged basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes then drained
Saffron
1 generous pinch Kashmiri saffron threads (or best-quality saffron), steeped in 3 tbsp warm whole milk for 20 minutes
Fat
3 tbsp ghee
Whole Spices
4 green cardamom pods, lightly bruised
1 stick cinnamon (about 5cm)
4 cloves
1 black cardamom pod, lightly bruised
Aromatics
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
Garnish
30 g cashew nuts, halved
30 g raisins or sultanas
1 tbsp slivered blanched almonds, toasted, to garnish
Liquid
500 ml water
Seasoning
1 tsp salt
Method
Steep the saffron threads in warm whole milk for at least 20 minutes. The milk should turn a deep amber-orange. In a small frying pan, heat 1 tbsp of the ghee over medium heat and fry the sliced onion until deeply golden-brown and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper. In the same pan, briefly toast the cashews until golden, then remove. Add the raisins and fry for 30 seconds until plump. Remove and set aside.
In a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat the remaining 2 tbsp ghee over medium heat. Add all the whole spices (green cardamom, cinnamon stick, cloves, black cardamom) and fry for 60 seconds until fragrant.
Add the drained basmati rice to the pot. Stir gently to coat the grains in the spiced ghee. Toast for 1–2 minutes until the rice is hot to the touch.
Add 500ml water and the salt. Bring to a vigorous boil over high heat. Stir once, then reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Cover tightly with a lid (seal with foil under the lid if needed) and cook for 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave undisturbed for a further 5 minutes.
Uncover the rice. Drizzle the saffron milk evenly over the surface of the rice: do not stir. Replace the lid for 2 minutes to let the saffron steep into the top layer. Then, using a fork, gently fluff the rice, folding the saffron through to create a marbled golden effect. Scatter the fried onion, cashews, and raisins over the top. Finish with toasted slivered almonds. Serve immediately.
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