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Sicilian flourless pistachio cake with candied orange zest and a dusting of icing sugar
Origin: Sicily, Italy
From the journey of Pistachio.
The flourless pistachio cake is among the most characteristic preparations of Sicilian pasticceria, occupying a position in the island's confectionery tradition comparable to that of the almond cake in Andalusia or the walnut cake in the Balkans. Sicily's pastry tradition is an amalgam of Arab, Norman, and Baroque Spanish influences compressed into a single island cuisine: the Arabs brought sugar cane, almonds, and pistachios; the Normans brought a taste for richness and layering; the Spanish brought the theatrical presentation of the Baroque pastry counter. The flourless pistachio cake expresses all three impulses. It is made without flour, relying entirely on ground pistachios for its structure, which gives it a dense, fudgy interior quite unlike any wheat-based cake: moist at the centre, slightly crisp at the edge, with a fragrance that fills the room as it bakes. Candied orange zest (scorzette d'arancia candite) is the canonical accompaniment: Sicily produces some of the finest candied citrus in the world, from the blood orange orchards of the plain of Catania and the navel orange groves of the Conca d'Oro around Palermo. The combination of pistachio and candied orange belongs to the same flavour logic as the Arab-Sicilian tradition of marzipan frutta martorana (almond paste coloured to resemble fruit): the nut and the citrus, the sweet and the faintly bitter, bound together by the richness of egg and sugar.
The cake keeps well for up to three days at room temperature, wrapped in paper rather than cling film, which traps moisture and softens the crust. It is excellent the day after baking, when the pistachio flavour has deepened. A thin layer of pistachio cream (crema di pistacchio, available at Italian delicatessens) spread over the top before serving the candied orange makes a more elaborate version suitable for a celebration table.
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