Torta di Erbe

the medieval European spinach and herb tart: a crisp-pastried open tart filled with a moist, egg-bound combination of wilted spinach, fresh ricotta, and sharp aged cheese, scented with marjoram, nutmeg, and a frugal pinch of saffron, the Lenten supper of the medieval monastery and the town table alike

Origin: The Courts and Monasteries of Medieval France and Northern Europe

From the journey of Spinach.

The torta di erbe (herb tart) is among the oldest documented preparations of spinach in northern European cooking, and it belongs to a category of dish (the savoury tart or pie filled with green herbs, eggs, and dairy) that predates the widespread use of spinach specifically. The medieval European herbolace, tarte verte, or torta di erbe was originally made with whatever herbs and potherbs were available: chard, beet tops, nettle, parsley, and the various field greens that medieval foragers knew under their local names. When spinach arrived in the European kitchen, via Sicily and the crusading Levant, in the 12th and 13th centuries, it was absorbed into this existing tradition and gradually became its dominant green. The dish appears in the most important medieval European recipe collections: versions are found in the Catalan Llibre de Sent Soví (c. 1324), the French Viandier de Taillevent (c. 1380), and the Italian Libro della Cucina of the 14th century. The English Forme of Cury (c. 1390) contains a preparation of 'spynoches' (spinach) combined with eggs and cheese in a pastry case that is recognisably the same dish. In all these versions the combination of green vegetable with egg and cheese in a pastry case forms the core; the spices vary from manuscript to manuscript, but saffron, ginger, and nutmeg appear in most. The medieval character of the dish is particularly preserved in the saffron: a spice that by the Ligurian and Florentine torta di erbe of the Renaissance had already become optional or regional, but in the medieval original was a mark of prestige and a demonstration that the household or the monastery kitchen was connected to the spice trade routes of the Mediterranean. The torta di erbe is a Lenten dish first and a celebration dish second: the absence of meat and the prominence of green and dairy suited the fast days that constituted a substantial portion of the medieval Christian calendar.

Ingredients

Pastry

250 g plain flour
125 g cold unsalted butter, cubed
0.5 tsp fine salt
3 tbsp iced water

Filling

600 g fresh spinach, washed and trimmed
30 g unsalted butter
250 g fresh ricotta, well drained
60 g Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
3 large eggs
0.25 tsp saffron threads, steeped in 2 tbsp hot water
0.25 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
0.5 tsp dried marjoram or fresh marjoram, finely chopped
0.25 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp fine salt
0.25 tsp white pepper

Method

Make the pastry: combine the flour and salt in a bowl. Rub in the cold butter with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the iced water one tablespoon at a time, mixing with a fork just until the dough comes together. Shape into a disc, wrap in cling film, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Wilt the spinach in a large dry pan over medium heat (or blanch briefly in boiling water). Drain, squeeze as dry as possible in a clean cloth, and chop finely. Melt 30 g butter in the pan, add the chopped spinach, and stir to coat. Season lightly and cook for 1 minute. Allow to cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 190°C (170°C fan). Roll the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a circle about 3 mm thick. Line a 23 cm loose-bottomed tart tin. Prick the base with a fork, line with baking paper and baking beans, and blind-bake for 15 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and bake for a further 5 minutes until the base is pale gold. Allow to cool slightly.
In a large bowl, combine the drained ricotta, grated cheese, eggs, saffron water, nutmeg, marjoram, ginger, salt, and white pepper. Beat with a fork until well combined. Fold in the cooked spinach.
Pour the filling into the blind-baked tart shell and smooth the surface. Bake at 190°C for 25–30 minutes until the filling is just set; it should have a very slight wobble at the centre when gently shaken; it will firm fully as it cools.
Allow to cool in the tin for at least 15 minutes before unmoulding. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges. A drizzle of good olive oil over each slice is both traditional and excellent.

Notes

The medieval recipe tradition uses a double crust in some versions (a covered pie, or 'coperto'); the open-faced version presented here is the more common modern interpretation and is more closely related to the Ligurian torta di verdure and the Pisan torta coi becchi that have descended directly from the medieval original. A small handful of fresh parsley, marjoram, or flat-leaf parsley added to the spinach before mixing is entirely in the spirit of the medieval original, whose 'erbe' always included more than one herb. The tart is excellent the following day at room temperature, and it travels well; it is the kind of dish that medieval pilgrims and travellers would have recognised as good portable food.

The Gastrographer

Name: Torta di Erbe
Prep time: 40 min
Cook time: 40 min
Total time: 1 h 50 min
Yield: 6
Cuisine: The Courts and Monasteries of Medieval France and Northern Europe
Ingredients: 250 g plain flour; 125 g cold unsalted butter, cubed; 0.5 tsp fine salt; 3 tbsp iced water; 600 g fresh spinach, washed and trimmed; 30 g unsalted butter; 250 g fresh ricotta, well drained; 60 g Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated; 3 large eggs; 0.25 tsp saffron threads, steeped in 2 tbsp hot water; 0.25 tsp freshly grated nutmeg; 0.5 tsp dried marjoram or fresh marjoram, finely chopped; 0.25 tsp ground ginger; 1 tsp fine salt; 0.25 tsp white pepper

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control