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the tamarind prawns of the Mekong Delta: whole prawns tossed in a dark, glossy glaze of tamarind, fish sauce, sugar, and garlic, sweet, sour, and savoury all at once and eaten with the fingers
Origin: Vietnam
From the journey of Tamarind.
Tôm rang me, tamarind prawns, is one of the most loved dishes of southern Vietnam, and it shows the tamarind, me, doing the work it does best in that kitchen: holding sweet, salt, and heat in balance with its own deep, rounded sourness. The dish belongs to the Mekong Delta and to Saigon, where the tamarind grows readily and where the southern palate leans sweeter and more frankly sour than that of the north, and it is a close cousin of cua rang me, the tamarind crab that is the grander version of the same idea. Whole prawns, shells on, are flash-fried and then tossed through a glaze cooked down from tamarind pulp, fish sauce, and sugar with plenty of garlic and chilli, until the sauce clings darkly to every shell. It is deliberately messy food: the prawns are eaten with the fingers, the shells sucked clean of the sauce, and a bowl set out for the debris, which is exactly the point, for much of the flavour sits on the outside. Sweet, sour, salty, garlicky, and faintly hot, it is southern Vietnamese cooking in a single dish.
The same sauce makes cua rang me with crab, the celebrated grander version, and works equally with squid or chicken wings. The balance of sour, sweet, and salt is the whole art and is adjusted to taste; southern Vietnamese cooking leans sweeter than northern, so add sugar confidently. The prawns can be peeled if you prefer a tidier dish, though a good deal of flavour is lost with the shells. Serve with plain rice to soak up the surplus glaze.
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