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A glossy emerald-to-crimson Georgian sauce of cherry plums simmered to a pulp and pounded with garlic, fresh coriander, dill, and the wild minty pennyroyal ombalo, sharp and herbal, spooned alongside charcoal-grilled meats, fried potatoes, and torn bread
Origin: Georgia (Caucasus)
From the journey of Plum.
Tkemali takes its name from the cherry plum itself (Prunus cerasifera), the small sour wild plum that grows across the river valleys of Georgia and ripens twice a year, so that the sauce is made green in early summer and red again in autumn. It is, by common consent, the national condiment of Georgia, as fundamental to the Georgian table as the bread that mops it up. The colour of a given batch is simply a matter of season: the unripe green fruit yields a bracing, almost electric sourness, whilst the fully ripened red plums give a rounder, deeper sauce, and many households put up jars of both to last the winter. What sets tkemali apart from every other fruit relish of the region is the herb ombalo, the wild pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) of the Caucasian hillsides, whose cooling, slightly medicinal note no other mint can replace; alongside it go great handfuls of coriander and dill, garlic pounded to a paste, and a little dried chilli. The sauce belongs to the supra, the Georgian feast, where it is set down beside mtsvadi (skewered grilled meat), fried or boiled potatoes, beans, and roast chicken, its job to cut through fat and richness with a clean, herbal acidity. Georgians regard tkemali as both food and folk medicine, a digestive aid as much as a relish, and the trees that supply it are a familiar sight in village gardens throughout Kartli and Kakheti.
True tkemali plums are hard to find outside Georgia, but ordinary cherry plums, unripe greengages, or a mixture of tart plums sharpened with a squeeze of lemon will all give a respectable result. Ombalo (pennyroyal) is the soul of the sauce and worth seeking out from Georgian or Caucasian suppliers; spearmint is a distant substitute that lacks its cool, resinous edge. Green tkemali, made from underripe fruit, is the more bracing of the two and is the classic partner for grilled meats, whilst the red autumn version suits potatoes and beans. Serve at room temperature.
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