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the Provençal apricot tart: ripe halved apricots arranged on a thin frangipane cream in a blind-baked shortcrust shell, finished with an apricot glaze and a dusting of icing sugar in the manner of the summer pâtisseries of the Luberon and the Var
Origin: Provence, France
From the journey of Apricot.
Provence is the apricot capital of France, and the tarte aux abricots its most characteristic summer pastry. The apricot arrived in southern France through the Moorish transmission from Iberia and by the coastal Arab Mediterranean trade before Iberian contact, and the valley orchards of the Luberon, the Var, and the Durance basin became among the most productive apricot-growing regions in Europe from the sixteenth century onward. The Bergeron, Rouge du Roussillon, and Polonais varieties developed in Provence are still prized by pastry chefs for their balance of sweetness and acidity, which is precisely what the tarte requires. The logic of the tarte is a study in restraint: a thin, barely sweetened shortcrust shell; a shallow layer of frangipane (almond cream) that cushions the fruit and absorbs its juice as it bakes; apricots laid cut side up in a neat spiral that both shows the fruit and retains the cooking juices within the cup of each half; and a final glaze of boiled apricot jam that seals the surface and gives the tart its characteristic amber finish. Nothing else is needed. The frangipane-and-apricot pairing is one of the great pairings of French pâtisserie: the almond amplifies the apricot's own kernel note, and the slight bitterness of both provides a necessary counterpoint to the sweetness of the pastry and glaze.
The Provençal versions of this tart often include a few drops of bitter almond extract in the frangipane, which amplifies the apricot's own kernel note and gives a slightly more assertive almond character. If your apricots are very ripe or tend to release a lot of juice, dust the blind-baked shell with a thin layer of ground almonds before spreading the frangipane: this absorbs excess juice and prevents a soggy base. Serve at room temperature with a jug of thin cream or a quenelle of crème fraîche.
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