Tarhana Soup

A thick, deeply savoury soup made from tarhana: a fermented and dried mixture of wheat flour, yoghurt, tomatoes, peppers and spices: reconstituted in stock with a slick of butter and crushed dried mint on top. Tarhana is one of the world's oldest instant foods: a meal compressed into a shelf-stable powder, ready in minutes.

Origin: Central Anatolia, Turkey

From the journey of Wheat.

Tarhana is a form of food preservation as old as settled agriculture in Anatolia; fermented wheat and yoghurt dried into small crumbles or cakes that could sustain nomadic Turkic peoples through winters and long journeys. The name appears in Ottoman records as far back as the 14th century. Each region of Turkey has its own tarhana recipe: some include chickpeas, some are made with soured milk, others are bright red with roasted pepper. The Greek equivalent, trachanas, and the Iranian kashk share the same ancient origin; fermentation and solar drying as a means of turning surplus wheat and dairy into durable nutrition.

Ingredients

  • 6 tbsp tarhana powder (store-bought or homemade)
  • 150 ml cold water or stock
  • 1 litre chicken stock, hot
  • 30 g butter
  • 1 tsp dried mint
  • 0.5 tsp dried chilli flakes
  • to taste Salt

Method

  1. Dissolve the tarhana powder in the cold water, whisking until smooth with no lumps. Leave to soak for 15 minutes.
  2. Pour the hot stock into a medium saucepan. Add the dissolved tarhana and whisk to combine.
  3. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently to prevent the bottom catching. Cook for 15–20 minutes until the soup is thick, fragrant and slightly tangy.
  4. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan until foaming. Add the dried mint and chilli flakes and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.
  5. Ladle the soup into bowls and immediately pour over the spiced butter. Serve with crusty bread or lavash.
The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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