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the Zagorje pastry of stretched dough rolled round fresh cottage cheese, boiled or baked, and drowned in cream
Origin: Zagreb, Hrvatsko Zagorje & the Pannonian Basin
From the journey of Wheat.
Štrukli is dough stretched until it is translucent, spread with fresh cottage cheese beaten with egg and cream, rolled up, cut into lengths, and then either boiled and dressed with butter and breadcrumbs or baked under a flood of cream until the top blisters. Zagreb serves the baked version and calls it zagorski štrukli, and the Croatian Ministry of Culture placed it on the national register of intangible cultural heritage in 2007. The dough is the same principle as a strudel and the same family: stretched by hand over the backs of the knuckles on a cloth-covered table until it is thin enough to read through and then filled and rolled. Central Europe does a great deal of this and the technique travelled with the Habsburg kitchen, which is why an Austrian strudel, a Hungarian rétes, a Slovenian štruklji, and a Croatian štrukli are all recognisably the same manoeuvre performed on different fillings. Slovenia makes it too, spells it štruklji, and treats it as its own, which it is. The Zagorje hills of northern Croatia and the Slovenian countryside immediately across the border are one landscape and were one administrative region for most of their history; the dish belongs to that whole area rather than to the frontier drawn through it. Slovenian versions run to a wider range of fillings, savoury and sweet, including tarragon, walnut, and buckwheat. The cheese should be fresh, soft, and slightly sour, which is what a Central European svježi sir or skuta is; ricotta is the usual substitute and is milder and wetter, so it wants draining and a squeeze of lemon to bring the sourness back.
The vinegar and the long rest are what make the dough stretchable; without both it tears. Stretch on the backs of your knuckles rather than with fingertips, and work over a floured cloth so you can use it to roll the finished sheet. Drain ricotta overnight in a sieve if using it, and add a squeeze of lemon, since it is wetter and milder than the Central European fresh cheese this is built for. Press the cut ends firmly to seal. The baked version wants enough cream to come halfway up the pieces; less and the tops dry out.
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