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the syrup waffle of Gouda: a thin yeasted waffle pressed until crisp, split whilst hot with a knife, and filled with a dark caramel of sugar, butter, and cinnamon that softens over a cup of coffee
Origin: Netherlands
From the journey of Sugar Cane.
Amsterdam was the sugar capital of northern Europe. Antwerp had refined the Atlantic sugar of Madeira and São Tomé through the sixteenth century, and when the city fell to Spain in 1585 its refiners and their capital moved north; by the middle of the seventeenth century Amsterdam held sixty or more refineries and dominated the European trade, and Dutch merchants held the Brazilian sugar coast at Pernambuco for a quarter of a century to feed them. Cheap refined sugar and a great deal of imported spice are the foundation of the whole Dutch and Flemish sweet tradition, from speculaas to the stroopwafel. The waffle is a thrift dish by origin, credited to a Gouda baker at the end of the eighteenth century who is said to have swept up the crumbs and offcuts of the bakery, bound them with syrup, and pressed the result between waffle irons; the earliest versions were sold to the poor. It is now the Dutch national biscuit, sold by the stack in every supermarket and made fresh at market stalls, and there is a settled ritual for eating it: the waffle is laid across the rim of a hot cup of coffee or tea so the steam softens the caramel inside before the first bite.
A dedicated stroopwafel iron gives the authentic fine honeycomb pattern and the right thinness; a pizzelle iron is the usual substitute and works well. Without either, press the balls between two heavy baking sheets in a very hot oven for 6 to 8 minutes, which gives a flatter, plainer biscuit that still splits. Golden syrup stands in for the Dutch stroop, which is a dark cane or beet syrup and is sold by Dutch grocers under that name if you want the authentic flavour. The splitting defeats most people first time, and there is no shame in the shortcut used by many home bakers of pressing two thin waffles separately and sandwiching them. Speculaas, made from the same tradition of cheap refined sugar and colonial spice, is its natural companion.
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