Rich, creamy, and aerated between tumbler and davara: the coffee of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu
Origin: Chikmagalur, Karnataka / Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India
From the journey of Coffee.
Coffee in India begins with a legend: around 1600, a Sufi pilgrim named Baba Budan returned from Mecca with seven coffee seeds concealed in his belt: an act punishable by death in Yemen, which then jealously guarded the global coffee monopoly. He planted them in the Chandragiri Hills of Karnataka, the range now named Baba Budan Hills in his honour, establishing what would become one of the world's great coffee-growing regions. South Indian filter coffee (kaapi in Tamil and Kannada, where the 'c' softens) is distinct from all other coffee preparations: it uses a two-part stainless steel filter percolator unique to the region, which slow-drips a thick, dark, almost syrup-like decoction over several hours through a fine plate with small holes. This concentrated decoction is then mixed with freshly scalded full-fat milk and sugar, and, crucially, aerated by pouring the mixture back and forth from the tall tumbler to the wide, shallow davara (saucer) from a considerable height, creating a light foam and cooling the coffee to drinking temperature simultaneously. On the streets of Chennai, vendors perform this pouring with theatrical flair, stretching to arm's length; a practice known as 'meter coffee'. South Indian filter coffee is defined by its blend: typically 60–80% coffee to 20–40% chicory, the chicory adding a distinctive slight bitterness, body, and earthy sweetness that pure coffee cannot replicate. The Indian Coffee House chain, founded in 1936 and famously converted to a worker-cooperative in 1957, became an institution of intellectual, bohemian, and political life: the meeting place of artists, freedom fighters, and writers across every major south Indian city.
The correct blend is everything: South Indian filter coffee without chicory is just strong coffee; the chicory is what makes it kaapi. Branded blends (Cothas Coffee from Bangalore is the gold standard; Leo and Narasu's are also excellent) are available at Indian grocery shops and online worldwide. The stainless-steel South Indian filter is inexpensive and widely available online; it is worth owning if you make this regularly. Leftover decoction keeps in the refrigerator for up to 2 days and can be reheated gently.
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