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Italian celery braised in tomato and olive oil: a Neapolitan side dish of quiet brilliance
Origin: Italy (Naples / Southern Italy)
From the journey of Celery.
Braised celery (sedano brasato) is one of the overlooked classics of the Italian vegetable kitchen (a preparation in which celery, usually regarded as an aromatic or a raw salad ingredient, is given centre stage and cooked until completely tender in olive oil, garlic, and tomato. The result is a transformation: the raw celery's bitter assertiveness mellows into something rich, silky, and deeply savoury, the olive oil and tomato creating a sauce that the celery absorbs and which becomes the point. The dish belongs to the southern Italian tradition of cucina povera) the peasant kitchen: where the vegetable is not a garnish but the meal itself, eaten with abundant bread to mop up the tomato-celery sauce. Naples and Campania are particularly associated with braised celery: the region's long-stalk varieties are well-suited to slow cooking, and the combination with the region's excellent tomatoes and olive oil gives the dish a character specific to the south. Sedano al pomodoro appears in various forms across Campania, Puglia, and Sicily, sometimes enriched with capers and olives (in the Sicilian tradition) to produce a deeply complex, agrodolce preparation.
This dish is excellent warm, but it is arguably better at room temperature: served as an antipasto or part of an Italian spread. Like all braised vegetable dishes of southern Italy, it improves overnight. For the Sicilian version (celery agrodolce), add a tablespoon of red wine vinegar and a teaspoon of sugar in the last 5 minutes of cooking to produce a sweet-sour balance. Adding a handful of toasted pine nuts with the basil at the end makes the dish richer and more substantial.
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