Sate Lilit

Bali's 'wrapped satay': minced fish, grated coconut, and a pounded base genep pressed round stalks of lemongrass and grilled over charcoal

Origin: Denpasar & Bali

From the journey of Lemongrass.

Sate lilit is the satay of Bali, and it is made differently from every other satay in Indonesia. Lilit means to wrap: instead of cubes of meat threaded on a skewer, a paste of minced fish, grated coconut, and spice is pressed round the stick, and the stick is traditionally a stalk of lemongrass, which perfumes the satay from the inside as it grills. The spice is base genep, the 'complete seasoning' of Balinese cooking, pounded from shallot, garlic, chilli, galangal, turmeric, ginger, kencur, candlenut, and shrimp paste. Fish is the classic filling, but chicken, pork, and duck are all made on the island. The lemongrass is not optional in the old way of making it: the bruised stalk flavours the paste, holds it together, and serves as the handle.

Ingredients

Satay

  • 500 g firm white fish fillet (mackerel, snapper, or tuna), skinned and finely minced
  • 100 g freshly grated coconut, or desiccated coconut soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
  • 2 makrut lime leaves, very finely shredded
  • 1 tsp palm sugar, grated
  • 1 tsp salt

Base Genep

  • 6 shallots
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 3 red chillies, deseeded
  • 3 bird's eye chillies
  • 3 cm galangal, sliced
  • 3 cm fresh turmeric, or 1 tsp ground
  • 2 cm ginger
  • 3 candlenuts, or macadamia nuts
  • 1 tsp shrimp paste (terasi), toasted
  • 2 tbsp coconut oil

To Wrap

  • 16 stalks of lemongrass, outer layer removed, trimmed to 20 cm, the thick ends bruised

Method

  1. Pound or blend all the base genep ingredients except the oil to a fine paste. Fry it in the coconut oil over a medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes until fragrant and no longer raw, then cool.
  2. Mix the minced fish with the cooled paste, the coconut, lime leaves, palm sugar, and salt, and knead for 2 to 3 minutes until sticky.
  3. With wet hands, take about 2 tablespoons of the mixture and press it round the thick end of a lemongrass stalk in an oval about 8 cm long. Repeat with the rest.
  4. Grill over hot charcoal, or under a hot grill, for 8 to 10 minutes, turning, until golden and lightly charred.
  5. Serve hot with rice and sambal matah.

Notes

If you cannot find lemongrass long and firm enough for skewers, flat bamboo skewers work, but add one finely chopped lemongrass stalk to the paste to keep the flavour. The mixture can be made several hours ahead and kept chilled.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
© 2026 The Gastrographer. All original research, narratives, and illustrations. All rights reserved.