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Samoa's bean thread noodles braised with minced beef, a great deal of ginger, and soy sauce until every strand has drunk the pan dry
Origin: Apia, Upolu & Samoa
From the journey of Mung Bean.
Sapasui is what a Samoan gathering is measured by. It is cooked in quantities that look industrial, carried to the table in a basin rather than a bowl, and eaten at room temperature with the fingers or a fork at every fa'alavelave, every to'ona'i after Sunday church, and every funeral, wedding, and birthday in between. A Samoan household abroad in Auckland, Sydney, or Los Angeles will make it for the same occasions and in the same quantity. The strands are the dish. Bean thread vermicelli is made from mung bean starch rather than from wheat or rice, which is why it turns from opaque white to glassy translucent as it hydrates and why it behaves as it does in the pan: it absorbs a very great deal of liquid without going to paste, so a properly made sapasui is not a noodle in a sauce but a noodle that has drunk the sauce entirely and holds it. Substituting rice vermicelli produces something that collapses, and substituting wheat noodles produces a stir-fry. The route it took is a specific and quite short one. The first shipment of three hundred indentured Chinese labourers reached Apia in April 1903, recruited through the southern Chinese ports to work the German colonial administration's copra and cacao plantations, and 3,868 men had been contracted by the time the First World War ended German rule, with rather more than two thousand in the colony at any one time. The New Zealand administration that followed continued the scheme and then wound it down, repatriating most of the men between the wars; a minority stayed, married into Samoan families, and their descendants are part of Samoan society. What those cooks left behind is not a Chinese restaurant tradition, which never took root, but a single dish that became wholly Samoan. The name is the American-Chinese chop suey rendered into Samoan phonology, and it is worth saying that the dish does not resemble American chop suey in any meaningful way beyond the ancestry of its name. What Samoa did to it is mostly ginger. The quantity is startling to anyone raised on a Cantonese hand, three or four tablespoons of it grated into a pan for six people, and it is the ginger against the soy and the sweetness of the browned onion that makes the dish taste Samoan rather than Chinese.
Buy bean thread vermicelli, sold as glass noodles, cellophane noodles, or mung bean thread, and check the packet says mung bean rather than sweet potato or rice. The sweet potato ones are chewier and Korean in style; the rice ones fall apart. Do not oversoak: strands left in water until fully soft will turn to mush during the braise, and they should still be slightly firm going into the pan. The dish is deliberately made in bulk, keeps for three days in the refrigerator, and is generally reckoned better on the second day. If you scale it up for a crowd, keep the ginger in proportion, since it is the first thing that gets lost.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key