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The heart of the Korean table: cool lettuce leaves wrapped around grilled pork belly, a dab of the fermented paste ssamjang, a sliver of raw garlic, and a little rice, folded and eaten whole in a single generous mouthful
Origin: Korea
From the journey of Lettuce.
Ssam, meaning simply 'wrapped', is less a recipe than a way of eating that lies at the very centre of Korean food culture, and the lettuce leaf is its essential vessel. A washed leaf of soft sangchu lettuce is held in the palm and built into a single perfect bite: a piece of hot grilled pork belly fresh from the tabletop grill, a smear of ssamjang (the thick, pungent dipping paste of fermented soybean doenjang and chilli gochujang), a sliver of raw garlic, perhaps a ring of green chilli and a little steamed rice, the whole folded into a parcel and eaten in one mouthful so that nothing spills. The pleasure is in the assembly and in the balance, the cool crisp leaf against the rich pork, the deep ferment of the ssamjang against the bite of raw garlic. No Korean barbecue is set without a heaped plate of lettuce and perilla leaves at its centre, and the building of one's own ssam is part of the conviviality of the meal. So central is the lettuce wrap that a Yuan-dynasty Chinese record praised the lettuce grown by Korean palace women and called it the 'thousand-gold vegetable' for the high price of its seed. The dish can be made with thin pork belly (samgyeopsal) grilled plain, or with the marinated grilled beef bulgogi, but the architecture of the wrap stays the same.
Marinated bulgogi beef can replace the pork belly, and grilled mushrooms make a fine vegetarian version with the same ssamjang and leaves. Thinly sliced raw garlic is traditional, but the cloves can be grilled alongside the pork for a sweeter, milder bite. A bowl of plain pickled radish or kimchi rounds out the table. The lettuce is non-negotiable: it is the plate, the wrapper, and the cool heart of the dish all at once.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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