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Javanese raw shallot and chilli sambal, pounded coarse and scalded with hot oil
Origin: East Java, Indonesia
From the journey of Shallot.
Of the many hundreds of Indonesian sambals, this is the one that puts the shallot in front rather than behind. Sambal bawang means shallot sambal, and the recipe is close to nothing: raw shallots, raw bird's eye chillies, garlic, salt, and hot oil poured over. There is no cooking of the aromatics, no tomato, no shrimp paste in the plainest versions, and no long reduction. What you taste is the shallot itself, sharp and sweet and barely tamed by the oil that scalds it. The hot oil is the whole technique. Poured at frying temperature over the pounded mixture, it cooks the outside of everything in a few seconds whilst leaving the interior raw, which knocks back the harshest of the sulphur compounds without cooking away the freshness. Stir the same ingredients into cold oil and the result is aggressive; simmer them and you have made a different, duller sambal. It belongs to the warungs of East Java and is inseparable from ayam penyet and ayam geprek, the smashed fried chicken dishes of Surabaya, where the chicken is pressed down into a mound of it on the plate. Its heat is not moderate. A domestic batch takes twenty or thirty bird's eye chillies and Javanese cooks would consider that restrained. The stone mortar is not decorative. Pounding crushes the cell walls and releases juice into the mixture, where blades merely cut, and a food processor gives a sambal that is wetter, paler, and noticeably less pungent.
Twenty-five bird's eye chillies is a genuinely hot sambal and is the standard East Javanese quantity. Halve it for a first attempt and use large red chillies for part of the weight if you want colour without heat. A stone mortar gives a noticeably better result than a processor. If you must use a machine, pulse rather than blend and stop whilst it is still coarse. It keeps for a week refrigerated under a film of the oil and the flavour softens and rounds after a day. Serve with ayam penyet or ayam geprek, with grilled fish, with fried tofu and tempeh, or simply with rice and a fried egg. Sambal matah, the Balinese one, uses the same raw shallot idea but slices rather than pounds and adds lemongrass and lime leaf.
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