Salvia Fritta

The simplest Italian antipasto: large sage leaves dipped in a light batter and fried until crisp and golden, the leaf turning delicate and lacy around its fragrant, melting centre, sometimes hiding a salted anchovy within

Origin: Northern and Central Italy

From the journey of Sage.

Salvia fritta, fried sage, is one of those Italian dishes that turns a single humble ingredient into something quietly magical. Large, whole sage leaves are dipped in a thin batter and fried for a few seconds until the batter sets crisp and pale gold and the leaf inside turns soft, fragrant, and almost melting. They are eaten hot from the pan as part of a fritto misto or an antipasto, with a glass of wine, the warm camphoraceous perfume of the sage released by the heat. In Tuscany, Liguria, and the Veneto a salted anchovy or a little cheese is sometimes pressed between two leaves before frying, in the manner of fried stuffed olives or courgette flowers. It is bar food and home food at once, a reminder that the best Italian cooking often does almost nothing to a perfect ingredient.

Ingredients

Sage

  • 40 large fresh sage leaves, with a little stalk left on if possible

Batter

  • 100 g plain flour
  • 150 ml cold sparkling water (or cold water)
  • 1 pinch fine salt

Optional filling

  • 8 salted anchovy fillets, halved (optional, to sandwich between leaves)

Frying

  • 500 ml neutral oil, for frying
  • 1 pinch flaky sea salt, to finish

Method

  1. Wash and thoroughly dry the sage leaves; any water will make the hot oil spit. Whisk the flour, cold sparkling water, and a pinch of salt into a thin, smooth batter, the consistency of single cream.
  2. If using anchovies, press a half fillet between two sage leaves to make little sandwiches.
  3. Heat the oil in a deep pan to 170°C (a cube of bread browns in about 40 seconds). Holding each leaf by its stalk, dip it in the batter, let the excess drip off, and lower it into the oil.
  4. Fry for 30 to 60 seconds, turning once, until the batter is crisp and pale gold (it should not brown deeply). Lift out with a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper.
  5. Sprinkle with flaky salt and serve immediately, while crisp and hot.

Notes

The sage leaves should be large and unblemished; the bigger the leaf, the better the result. Sparkling water makes the lightest batter, but plain cold water works. The anchovy filling is a lovely savoury touch, but plain fried sage is perfect on its own. Fried sage leaves are also wonderful scattered over pumpkin soup, risotto, or a plate of gnocchi.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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