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Rome's most elegant quick dish: thin escalopes of veal each topped with a slice of prosciutto and a leaf of sage, pinned together, floured, and cooked in butter and white wine until tender, the name promising a morsel so good it 'jumps in the mouth'
Origin: Rome and Lazio, Italy
From the journey of Sage.
Saltimbocca alla romana is one of the jewels of the Roman trattoria, a dish of three ingredients and almost no technique that depends entirely on their quality and balance: thin veal, fine prosciutto, and fresh sage. The name, saltimbocca, means 'jumps in the mouth', a promise of how irresistible it is. The sage is not a garnish but a defining structural element, a whole leaf laid on each escalope so that its camphoraceous fragrance perfumes the meat and the buttery, winey pan juices. The dish is cooked in minutes and eaten at once, and its restraint is the whole point: nothing is breaded, nothing is sauced beyond the deglazing of the pan, and the sage, prosciutto, and veal are left to speak for themselves. It is Roman cooking at its most confident.
Veal is traditional, but the same method works beautifully with thin pork or chicken escalopes, or with turkey. The three components must each be good: fresh sage, fine prosciutto, and tender meat. Some Roman cooks roll the escalopes (saltimbocca arrotolati), but the flat version is the classic. Do not skip deglazing the pan with wine; the buttery, sage-scented juices are half the pleasure.
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