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The dip at the centre of the Sudanese table: tahini and a little peanut butter loosened with lime and water into a pale, savoury cream, sharpened with garlic and cumin and sometimes a spoonful of yoghurt, scooped up with bread alongside ful and grilled meat at almost every meal
Origin: Khartoum, Sudan
From the journey of Sesame.
Sudan sits in one of the great sesame lands of the world, the Middle Nile, where the seed has been grown since the kingdoms of Kush and Meroë and where the country is, to this day, amongst its largest producers. Sesame oil is the everyday cooking fat, and tahini (taḥniyya) is a daily staple, most often in the form of this salad-dip that appears beside almost every Sudanese meal. What distinguishes the Sudanese version from the tahini sauces of the Levant is the addition of a little peanut butter (dakwa), the other great Sudanese seed paste, which rounds and deepens the sesame; it is sharpened with lime, garlic, and cumin and loosened to a pourable cream, sometimes enriched with a spoonful of yoghurt. Scooped up with bread alongside ful medames, salata aswad (smoked aubergine), and grilled meat, it is the savoury, everyday face of the seed that elsewhere became halva and hummus.
Salata tahniyya is endlessly adaptable: some cooks fold in grated cucumber or a chopped fresh chilli, others keep it plain to scoop with bread. The peanut butter (dakwa) can be left out for a purer tahini salad closer to the Levantine style, but the sesame-and-groundnut combination is the characteristically Sudanese touch. Use a good, light tahini whose only ingredient is sesame. It is a fixture of the Ramadan iftar table and of the everyday Sudanese spread alike.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
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