Solony arbuz (Russian salt-brined watermelon)

From the banks of the Lower Volga: whole small watermelons fermented in salt brine with dill, garlic, and horseradish for six to eight weeks, a distinctly Russian preserved vegetable tradition

Origin: Astrakhan and the Lower Volga Region, Russia

From the journey of Watermelon.

The Lower Volga basin, particularly the region around Astrakhan where the river meets the Caspian Sea, became one of Russia's most important watermelon-producing regions following the fruit's introduction via Ottoman trade and the Persian cultural sphere in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Russian tradition of fermenting vegetables and fruit in salt brine (zasolka) is among the most ancient and important culinary practices of the country: cucumbers, cabbage (kvashennaya kapusta), tomatoes, apples (mochenye yabloki), and watermelons were all preserved by lactic acid fermentation in wooden barrels. Tsar Peter the Great is recorded as having particularly enjoyed Astrakhan watermelons, and the region developed a strong cultivation and pickling tradition that persists to the present day. Solony arbuz ('salted watermelon') is made by placing whole small watermelons in barrels with salt, garlic, dill, and horseradish root (added for its tannins and preservative properties) and allowing them to ferment for six to eight weeks. The result bears almost no resemblance to the fresh summer fruit: the flesh becomes soft, faintly fizzy with fermentation, and intensely savoury, eaten with black rye bread and butter as a winter relish or alongside grilled or smoked meat.

Ingredients

base

3 small (2 to 3kg each) whole watermelons, choose the smallest, firmest watermelons available; they must fit into your fermenting vessel

brine

5 litres cold water (non-chlorinated if possible; use filtered water or tap water left overnight to off-gas)
250 g coarse non-iodised salt (not table salt or iodised salt, both of which inhibit fermentation)

aromatics

1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
1 large bunch fresh dill, including stalks and flower heads if available
200 g fresh horseradish root, peeled and cut into rough pieces

spices

1 tbsp black peppercorns
4 whole bay leaves

tannins

4 leaves oak, cherry, or blackcurrant leaves (for tannins to keep the flesh firm; available at Russian food stores or from a garden)

Method

Dissolve the salt completely in the cold water to make the brine. Stir until no salt grains remain. Taste: it should be very noticeably salty, approximately 4 to 5 per cent salt by weight.
Wash the watermelons thoroughly. Pierce each watermelon all over with a clean skewer or knitting needle (about 20 piercings per watermelon, distributed evenly) to allow the brine to penetrate the thick rind.
Place a layer of dill, a few garlic cloves, a piece of horseradish, and a few bay leaves at the bottom of a large clean crock, wooden barrel, or food-safe plastic container. Lay the watermelons on top. Pack the remaining dill, garlic, horseradish, peppercorns, bay leaves, and oak or cherry leaves in and around the watermelons.
Pour the brine over the watermelons until they are completely submerged. Place a plate or flat stone on top to weigh them down. Cover the vessel loosely with a cloth or lid (not airtight).
Leave to ferment at room temperature (18 to 22°C) for the first 3 to 5 days, then move to a cool cellar or cool room (10 to 15°C) for the remaining 5 to 7 weeks.
Check weekly. Skim off any white film (harmless yeast) from the surface and ensure the watermelons remain submerged. The brine will become cloudy and slightly fizzy as fermentation progresses.
After 6 to 8 weeks, taste by removing one watermelon and cutting it open. The flesh should be soft, faintly sour, slightly fizzy on the tongue, and deeply savoury. Serve sliced thickly alongside black rye bread and butter, or as a condiment with smoked or grilled meats.

Notes

Non-iodised coarse salt is essential: iodised salt inhibits the lactic acid bacteria responsible for fermentation. Sea salt, kosher salt, and pickling salt are all suitable; do not use table salt. Oak, cherry, or blackcurrant leaves provide tannins that keep the flesh firm; they are not strictly essential but improve the final texture. Russian and Eastern European delicatessens sometimes sell solony arbuz ready-made from October to March. The pickled watermelon improves with time up to about three months; beyond that it becomes very sour and soft. Refrigerate once opened.

The Gastrographer

Name: Solony arbuz (Russian salt-brined watermelon)
Prep time: 30 min
Total time: 30 min
Yield: 8
Cuisine: Russia
Ingredients: 3 small (2 to 3kg each) whole watermelons, choose the smallest, firmest watermelons available; they must fit into your fermenting vessel; 5 litres cold water (non-chlorinated if possible; use filtered water or tap water left overnight to off-gas); 250 g coarse non-iodised salt (not table salt or iodised salt, both of which inhibit fermentation); 1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled; 1 large bunch fresh dill, including stalks and flower heads if available; 200 g fresh horseradish root, peeled and cut into rough pieces; 1 tbsp black peppercorns; 4 whole bay leaves; 4 leaves oak, cherry, or blackcurrant leaves (for tannins to keep the flesh firm; available at Russian food stores or from a garden)

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control