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Fiji's young dalo leaves simmered slowly in coconut cream with onion until they turn black-green and silken
Origin: Viti Levu & the Fijian Islands
From the journey of Taro.
Dalo is the Fijian taro and rourou is its leaf, and between them they account for a good deal of what is eaten on Viti Levu on an ordinary day. The corm is the ceremonial starch, presented in bundles at a sevusevu and lifted from the lovo whenever there is reason to dig a pit. The leaf is the weekday half of the partnership, and it is cooked with more coconut cream than seems reasonable until it turns into something closer to a sauce than a vegetable. Fiji sits at the meeting point of taro's two lineages, which is a fact of some consequence for the plant even if no cook thinks about it. The Lapita voyagers who reached these islands about three thousand years ago were carrying the Asian taro brought down through the Philippines and the older New Guinea taro picked up in the Bismarck Archipelago, and Fijian dalo descends from both. Everything east of here, including Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, and eventually Hawaiʻi, was settled from this side of the line. The cooking is undemanding and the timing is not. Rourou is left to simmer far past the point at which the leaves look finished, because taro leaf that has not been cooked through will scratch and burn the throat for hours afterwards. Fijian cooks tend to describe the endpoint by colour rather than by clock: the leaves must go properly dark, and a pan of rourou that is still bright green is not ready. It is served with fish, with more dalo, with cassava, or spooned over rice, and it appears at both ends of the social scale, on a village table and on a hotel buffet, without changing much on the way.
Taro leaves must be cooked until they are entirely soft and dark, because the calcium oxalate needles in the raw leaf cause severe and lasting irritation of the mouth and throat and only long wet cooking destroys them. Forty-five minutes is the minimum. Frozen taro leaves from a Pacific or Asian grocer are excellent and are what most cooks abroad use. Use thick coconut cream rather than the thin milk sold for curries; the dish depends on the fat. Cassava leaf is the closest substitute if taro leaf is unobtainable and needs the same long cooking, whilst spinach collapses in a quarter of the time and gives none of the depth.
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