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the red groats of the German and Danish north: redcurrants, raspberries, and sour cherries cooked briefly and thickened to a glossy compote, served cold under a flood of unwhipped cream
Origin: Germany
From the journey of Currant.
Rote Grütze means, quite literally, red groats, and the name preserves the dish's origin: before starch was to be had, the red summer fruit of the northern gardens was thickened with coarsely milled buckwheat, barley, or semolina, and the result was a fruit porridge rather than a pudding. The grain has long since given way to cornflour or potato starch, but the name has not moved, and the same is true across the border, where the Danes call it rødgrød and eat it in exactly the same way. Its backbone is the redcurrant, which supplies both the acidity that keeps the sweetness in check and the pectin that gives the compote its glossy body; raspberries add perfume, sour cherries depth, and strawberries bulk. It is a dish of the fortnight in July when everything ripens at once, and it is served cold, in a glass bowl, with cold single cream poured over rather than whipped, or with milk, or with vanilla sauce. In Denmark the full phrase rødgrød med fløde has passed out of the kitchen altogether and become the national test of pronunciation, the sentence Danes hand to foreigners in the serene confidence that it cannot be managed.
The proportions of fruit are flexible but the redcurrant should not be reduced, since it is what gives the dish its acidity and its set; an all-berry Grütze without currants tastes flat and needs far more lemon. Frozen mixed red fruit works well out of season and needs no thawing, though allow a couple of extra minutes' cooking. Rote Grütze keeps for four days covered in the refrigerator and does not freeze well, as the starch weeps on thawing. Northern German cooks sometimes replace part of the water with red wine for an adult version, and the traditional grain thickening, 40 g of fine semolina stirred in and simmered for 5 minutes in place of the starch, gives the older, denser texture that the name describes.
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