Rhubarb Pavlova

the antipodean meringue at its most vivid: a crisp-shelled, marshmallow-centred pavlova piled with vanilla-scented whipped cream and a compote of sharp, jewel-bright rhubarb, a dessert that turns the rhubarb stalk's most theatrical quality, its colour, into the centrepiece of the Southern Hemisphere table

Origin: Colonial Australia and New Zealand

From the journey of Rhubarb.

The pavlova (named, by tradition, after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who toured Australia and New Zealand in 1926) is the great contested dessert of the Southern Hemisphere, claimed with equal passion and documented with equal difficulty by both countries. Whether it was first made in New Zealand or Australia is a question that has been debated in parliamentary motions and food history journals; what is certain is that both countries claim it as their own national dessert with a fervour unmatched by almost any other culinary property, and that both make it superbly. The pavlova's structure (a tall, dome-shaped meringue with a crisp, barely coloured shell and a marshmallow-soft interior, achieved by the addition of cornstarch and a small amount of vinegar) distinguishes it from the crisper meringues of the European confectionery tradition; it is a different object, designed not to shatter but to give way, to crumble and yield to the pressure of the spoon, releasing the soft interior. Of all the fruits used to top a pavlova, rhubarb is among the most complementary: its tartness cuts through the meringue's sweetness in the same way that passion fruit (the classic Australian topping) does, and its vivid crimson and pink colour (particularly when made from forced rhubarb or early-season stalks) transforms the white dome of meringue and cream into one of the most visually striking desserts in the canon. The combination of warm (or room-temperature) stewed rhubarb, cold whipped cream, and the barely-sweet meringue (with its multiple textures of shell, interior, and compote) makes the rhubarb pavlova an argument for the form that needs no further assistance.

Ingredients

Meringue

  • 6 large egg whites, at room temperature
  • 300 g caster sugar
  • 2 tsp cornstarch (cornflour)
  • 1 tsp white wine vinegar or distilled malt vinegar
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

Rhubarb Compote

  • 600 g rhubarb stalks, cut into 4 cm pieces
  • 100 g caster sugar
  • 3 tbsp water
  • 1 vanilla pod, split, or 1 tsp vanilla extract

Cream

  • 500 ml double cream
  • 2 tbsp icing sugar, sifted
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (130°C fan). Line a large baking sheet with baking parchment. Draw a 25 cm circle on the parchment as a guide, then flip it over so the pencil mark is face down.
  2. In a large, scrupulously clean bowl (any trace of fat or yolk will prevent the whites from whipping), beat the egg whites with an electric mixer on medium speed until they form soft peaks. Gradually add the caster sugar, one tablespoon at a time, increasing the speed to high and beating well between each addition. When all the sugar is incorporated, continue beating for 5–7 minutes until the meringue is very thick, glossy, and smooth, and holds stiff peaks. A small amount pinched between the fingers should not feel gritty.
  3. Sift the cornstarch over the meringue. Add the vinegar and vanilla extract. Fold in gently with a large metal spoon, 5 or 6 firm folds only, enough to incorporate but not enough to deflate the meringue.
  4. Spoon the meringue onto the prepared baking sheet within the marked circle, shaping it into a dome with the back of a spoon. Make a shallow indentation in the top to hold the cream. Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes–1 hour 20 minutes until the shell is crisp and very lightly coloured (it should still be white to very pale beige, not golden). Turn the oven off and leave the pavlova inside with the door slightly ajar for at least 3 hours, or overnight, to cool completely.
  5. Make the rhubarb compote: place the rhubarb, sugar, water, and vanilla pod in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir, cover, and cook for 6–8 minutes until the rhubarb is just tender but still holding its shape; it should be soft and yielding but the pieces should be recognisable, not collapsed. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Remove the vanilla pod. The compote can be made a day in advance and refrigerated.
  6. Just before serving, whip the cream with the icing sugar and vanilla extract to soft, billowing peaks. Place the pavlova on a serving plate. Pile the whipped cream into the indentation in the top, spreading it generously. Spoon the cooled rhubarb compote (pieces and syrup) over the cream, allowing the brilliant pink juice to run down over the cream and meringue shell.

Notes

The meringue disc can be made 1–2 days in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature (in a dry climate, humidity is the enemy of meringue). The rhubarb compote can also be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Assemble only at the last moment. Some Australian recipes add a handful of fresh raspberries alongside the rhubarb topping, which provides a further textural and colour contrast; the combination of rhubarb, raspberry, and cream on pavlova is excellent. A scattering of freeze-dried raspberry pieces over the finished pavlova adds a jewel-like finish without changing the flavour.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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