Rettichsalat

Bavarian white radish salad shaved in paper-thin spirals with vinegar, caraway and chives: the canonical biergarten Radi

Origin: Munich & Upper Bavaria, Germany

From the journey of Radish.

The Bavarian biergarten (the outdoor drinking garden, originally established beside the cold-storage lagering cellars of Munich's monasteries and breweries in the early nineteenth century) settled on the Radi as its canonical snack for reasons as much practical as culinary. The long white Bavarian radish (Raphanus sativus var. longipinnatus, the variety known in English as the white icicle or Münchner Radi) is extraordinarily crisp, mildly peppery, and capable of being shaved, with the traditional radish cutter (Radieserlhobel), into a continuous translucent spiral that fans out across a wooden board in an expanding coil. Salted and left to weep, then dressed with white wine vinegar, caraway, and chives, the spirals soften and absorb the dressing while retaining a satisfying crunch. Eaten beside a Mass (a one-litre ceramic stein) of pale Helles or Weissbier, with a pretzel twisted fresh from the oven and smeared with sweet mustard, the Rettichsalat is the biergarten's defining food: simple, seasonal, and inseparable from the culture of the Augustinerbiergarten, the Chinesischer Turm, and the Englischer Garten on a summer afternoon in Munich. The Bavarian relationship with the white radish extends beyond the biergarten: the black radish (schwarzer Rettich), the winter counterpart, is grated raw and dressed with sour cream, or mixed into carp preparations for the Christmas table. But it is the summer Radi, spiralled and salted and dipped into Obatzda (the Bavarian spiced soft cheese), that is the more beloved icon.

Ingredients

Radish

2 large white icicle radishes (Münchner Radi or daikon), each about 25–30cm long and 4–5cm diameter
1½ tsp fine sea salt

Dressing

3 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp neutral oil (sunflower or light rapeseed)
½ tsp caster sugar
½ tsp caraway seeds, lightly crushed
½ tsp freshly ground white pepper

Herbs

3 tbsp fresh chives, finely cut

To Serve

pretzel bread or rye bread, to serve
Obatzda (Bavarian spiced camembert spread) or good butter, to serve

Method

Peel the white radishes. Using a mandoline, a very sharp knife, or the traditional Radieserlhobel radish cutter, slice or cut the radish into paper-thin rounds (2mm or less); ideally in a continuous spiral if using a cutter, or in translucent discs. Alternatively, use a vegetable peeler to shave long, thin ribbons.
Place the sliced radish in a bowl. Sprinkle over the salt and toss to coat. Leave for 15–20 minutes; the salt will draw out significant moisture from the radish. Drain off the liquid. Do not rinse.
Whisk together the white wine vinegar, oil, sugar, caraway seeds, and white pepper. Pour over the drained radish and toss to coat.
Add the chives and toss again. Taste and adjust: the salad should be tangy and savoury, with a clean peppery radish flavour and the fragrant anise note of the caraway. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
Pile onto a wooden board or serving plate in a loose mound or arranged in the traditional coiled spiral. Serve alongside a pretzel, bread, and Obatzda or good butter.

Notes

The long white Münchner Radi is the authentic variety for this dish and is available in Germany year-round and in specialist vegetable shops elsewhere. A good daikon (Japanese white radish) is an excellent substitute and is widely available. Standard small red radishes work but produce a smaller, less dramatic result. The caraway is essential and should not be omitted or substituted. For an Obatzda to serve alongside: mash 200g ripe Camembert with 100g cream cheese, 1 tbsp butter, 1 small diced onion, 1 tsp caraway, paprika, salt, pepper, and a splash of weissbier. Mix until spreadable.

The Gastrographer

Name: Rettichsalat
Prep time: 20 min
Total time: 20 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: Germany
Ingredients: 2 large white icicle radishes (Münchner Radi or daikon), each about 25–30cm long and 4–5cm diameter; 1½ tsp fine sea salt; 3 tbsp white wine vinegar; 1 tbsp neutral oil (sunflower or light rapeseed); ½ tsp caster sugar; ½ tsp caraway seeds, lightly crushed; ½ tsp freshly ground white pepper; 3 tbsp fresh chives, finely cut; pretzel bread or rye bread, to serve; Obatzda (Bavarian spiced camembert spread) or good butter, to serve

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control