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the most beloved of British preserves: fresh raspberries and sugar cooked briefly and hard to a soft, seed-flecked, deep-red set that keeps the fruit's fresh flavour — the jam of the sponge cake, the jam tart, and the buttered scone
Origin: England
From the journey of Raspberry.
Of all the fruits of the British garden, the raspberry may make the finest and the easiest jam. It is naturally high enough in pectin and acid to set without much help, and its flavour, unlike that of the strawberry, survives boiling remarkably well, so that raspberry jam tastes vividly of fresh raspberries in a way few cooked preserves manage. It became, from the eighteenth century onward, one of the staples of the British still-room and larder, and it holds a place in the national baking that no other jam quite matches: it is the jam that fills the Victoria sponge and the Swiss roll, that lines the bakewell and the jam tart, that is spread on the scone beneath the cream and stirred through the rice pudding and the sponge pudding. The classic English method is a quick, hard boil rather than the long simmer given to lower-pectin fruits: the raspberries are warmed to release their juice, the sugar is added and dissolved, and the whole is boiled hard for only a few minutes to reach setting point, so that the fruit is cooked as little as possible. The result is a soft, spreadable, brilliantly coloured jam, flecked with the tiny seeds that are, for most people, an essential part of its character.
Preserving sugar (with its larger crystals) gives the clearest jam and the least scum, but ordinary granulated sugar works perfectly well. Because raspberries are high in pectin, no added pectin is needed; if in doubt about a low-pectin batch, add the juice of a second lemon. For a seedless jam, press half the warmed fruit through a sieve before adding the sugar, leaving the rest whole for texture. This jam is the correct filling for a Victoria sponge, a bakewell tart, and a jam roly-poly.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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