To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key
the Valais half-wheel melted at the fire and scraped over potatoes in their skins, with cornichons and pickled onions
Origin: Sion & the Valais
From the journey of Potato.
Raclette is often described as a cheese dish, which understates the potato. The cheese is scraped over something, and what it is scraped over is a waxy potato boiled in its skin and kept hot: firm enough to take the weight of the melt, floury enough at the edge to hold it, and bland enough to make the cheese taste of more than it is. Take the potato away and the dish stops working, which is why the modern form of raclette can be no older than the potato in the Valais. The name is nineteenth-century and comes from racler, to scrape. Before that the German-speaking upper Valais called it Bratchäs, roasted cheese, and the French-speaking lower valley fromage rôti, and both described a herdsman's meal rather than a dinner: a half-wheel propped at the edge of a fire, the face softening, the softened layer drawn off with a knife onto whatever bread or grain was to hand. Its promotion from a mountain habit to a cantonal emblem is generally dated to the Sion cantonal exhibition of 1909, where it was presented as a speciality of the Valais. What almost everyone now owns is not that at all. The tabletop electric grill with its little sliding pans arrived in the 1950s and 1960s and turned raclette into a communal winter meal that anyone can cook indoors, and it is now the ordinary way the dish is eaten across Switzerland and well beyond it. The half-wheel at an open flame survives in the Valais and is what the Raclette du Valais AOP, protected since 2007, actually describes: raw milk from cows of the canton, and a wheel melted at its face rather than a slice melted in a pan. One piece of the ritual is worth naming as folklore. There is a firm and widely held belief that one must never drink cold water with raclette, on the grounds that the cheese will set into a lump in the stomach. It has no physiological basis whatsoever. The custom, on the other hand, is entirely real: what is poured is white wine, a small glass of Valais fendant or a kirsch, or hot tea, and a guest who asks for iced water will be corrected.
Buy proper raclette cheese; a mild washed-rind cheese from a supermarket will melt but will not smell of anything, and the point of the dish is the aroma that comes off the pan. Waxy varieties such as Charlotte, Ratte, or Jersey Royal hold their shape. Floury potatoes collapse into the melt and turn the plate to paste. The dried meat and the pickles are not optional in practice: eight hundred grammes of melted cheese across an evening needs the salt and the acid to stay eatable. Serve a dry white or hot tea, never a cold fizzy drink.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key