To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key
A southern Chilean quinoa and squash dish seasoned with merkén, the smoked chilli of the Mapuche
Origin: South-Central Chile (Mapuche country)
From the journey of Quinoa.
In the cool, green country of south-central Chile, the Mapuche people grew quinoa, which they call dawe or kinwa, alongside the maize, beans, and squash of their gardens long before the Inca or the Spanish came. The Chilean quinoa is a thing apart, the coastal, lowland ecotype adapted to the long days and mild conditions of the temperate south rather than the thin air of the high Altiplano, and it was this very type that would later make possible the cultivation of quinoa in Europe and the temperate world. In its own country it goes into the hearty cooking of the south, simmered with the sweet squash (zapallo) of the indigenous garden and seasoned with merkén, the smoked, sun-dried chilli that is the signature spice of the Mapuche kitchen. This dish brings those native partners together: fluffy quinoa folded through soft, golden squash, the whole warmed and reddened with merkén and rounded with onion and garlic. It is country food, sustaining and earthy, and it speaks to the southern Chilean and Mapuche tradition of cooking quinoa with the vegetables of the same ground rather than the milk and cheese of the northern Andes. A modern revival of quinoa-growing in the Araucanía and Bío Bío regions has brought the grain back to Chilean tables, often in just this kind of preparation. The smoked warmth of the merkén is what makes it unmistakably Chilean; without it the dish would be merely quinoa and squash, but with it the preparation carries the particular flavour of the Mapuche south.
Merkén, the smoked and ground ají cacho de cabra of the Mapuche, is the defining flavour; smoked paprika with a pinch of chilli is the nearest substitute. Beans, sweetcorn, or chard can be added in the southern Chilean spirit of cooking quinoa with the vegetables of the garden. Good warm as a main or a side.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key