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Egypt's winter stew of taro simmered with chard, coriander and lemon until the corm thickens the pot on its own account
Origin: The Nile Delta & Egypt
From the journey of Taro.
Qolqas arrives in the Cairo markets in November in enormous muddy corms, is sold by the kilo off the back of carts, and disappears again in early spring. It is a winter vegetable, an Epiphany dish in Coptic households, and one of the very few plants in the Egyptian repertoire that has been growing in the Delta since antiquity without ever becoming a headline crop. The name carries a warning for anyone reading the classical sources. Greek kolokasion, from which Arabic qulqās descends, did not originally mean this plant: in Dioscorides and in Pliny it names the root of the Egyptian lotus, Nelumbo nucifera, and only later slid across to the aroid growing in the same wet fields. Linnaeus inherited the shifted sense, which is why the genus is Colocasia. An ancient reference to colocasia in Egypt is therefore not automatically a reference to taro, and the plant's arrival date is less firmly fixed than the vocabulary suggests. What the Egyptian kitchen does with it is govern its texture. Qolqas is slippery when wet and Egyptians dislike that intensely, so the corm is peeled dry, cut into large chunks, and specifically not rinsed afterwards; the pieces are then browned or added straight to a simmering broth. Wash it and the surface starch turns to mucilage, and the stew becomes what Cairene cooks call dabik, sticky, which is a fault. The chard is the other half. Silq is cheap, abundant, and slightly bitter, and it cuts the flat starchiness of the corm; the coriander and garlic taqliya stirred in at the end, and the lemon squeezed over at the table, do the rest. Between them they turn a heavy root into something that tastes light, which is the whole trick of the dish.
Peel the taro dry and keep it dry: rinsing washes surface starch into a mucilage and the stew turns sticky, which Egyptians count as a spoiled dish. If your corms are muddy, wipe them with a cloth rather than washing them. The taqliya is a finishing tempering and loses everything if it is cooked at the start or allowed to brown, so make it in the last two minutes. Frozen peeled taro from a Middle Eastern grocer works well and saves the handling, though it is wetter and wants a slightly shorter simmer. The dish is made with beef shin in many households, added at the start and simmered until tender before the taro goes in; without meat it is a straightforward Coptic fasting dish.
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