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the everyday Chinese stir-fry of green pepper and pork slivers: velveted pork seared fast and tossed with matchsticks of sweet pepper in a light savoury sauce
Origin: China
From the journey of Bell Pepper.
Qingjiao rousi, green pepper and pork slivers, is one of the true staples of the everyday Chinese kitchen, found in home cooking, canteens, and small restaurants across the north and centre of the country, and it is often among the first stir-fries a Chinese cook learns. Capsicum reached China with Portuguese maritime trade in the later sixteenth century and was seized upon first as a spice, remaking the cooking of Sichuan and Hunan; the thick-walled sweet pepper arrived much later and by an entirely different logic, entering as a vegetable rather than a seasoning. It proved perfectly suited to the wok: cut into slivers it holds its shape and its snap under fierce heat, gives off little water, and takes the smoky char of the pan without collapsing. The dish depends on two techniques rather than on any elaborate seasoning. The first is the knife: pork and pepper are cut into matchsticks of the same size, so that they cook in the same instant and can be picked up together with chopsticks. The second is velveting, the marinating of the pork in cornflour, rice wine, and soy, which sheathes each sliver in a film that keeps it tender through the heat. The seasoning is deliberately restrained, since the point is the freshness of the pepper.
The dish is made across China with local variations: in the north with a little more dark soy for colour, in Hunan and Sichuan with a spoonful of fermented black beans, doubanjiang, or fresh hot chillies alongside the sweet pepper. Beef, chicken, or firm tofu can replace the pork by the same method. Some cooks blister the peppers dry in the wok first, without oil, which drives off water and deepens the flavour, then set them aside as the pork is cooked. Serve with plain rice and a simple soup.
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