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the New Orleans triumph of thrift and indulgence: day-old French bread soaked in vanilla custard, baked until puffed and golden, then drenched at the table with a warm pecan praline sauce of butter, cream, and brown sugar that is the praline in pourable form
Origin: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA
From the journey of Pecan.
Bread pudding arrived in New Orleans through the French colonial tradition (the French pain perdu and the Creole kitchen's longstanding practice of transforming stale bread into something richer than the loaf itself) but it achieved a specifically New Orleanian identity through the praline sauce, in which the pecans, cream, and caramelised sugar of the street candy were turned into a warm, pourable enrichment for the baked custard. The combination of the bread pudding and the praline sauce is a masterwork of Creole culinary logic: neither dish is complete without the other, and together they represent the New Orleans principle that excess applied correctly is a form of refinement. The bread pudding is one of the oldest of the city's restaurant dishes, documented in French Quarter restaurant menus from the nineteenth century and refined over generations in Creole households and the kitchens of the city's great restaurants (Galatoire's, Dooky Chase's, Commander's Palace) into the form that has made it one of the most recognisable New Orleans desserts. What distinguishes the New Orleans version from the bread and butter puddings of the British tradition or the diplomat pudding of France is the bread itself: the long, crisp French loaves of New Orleans (softer than a true baguette but crusty and light) produce a pudding with an extraordinarily yielding, custardy interior and a crisp, caramelised top, a contrast that the British pudding, made with sliced white bread, rarely achieves. The praline sauce that finishes the dish is the key element that places it firmly in the New Orleans pecan tradition. Butter, brown sugar, and cream are cooked together with pecan halves until the sugar caramelises around the nuts, and the warm sauce is ladled generously over the hot bread pudding at the table, where it soaks into the custard and turns the whole into a single, voluptuous preparation.
The overnight refrigerator soak is strongly recommended: the bread absorbs the custard completely and produces a far more even-textured, custardy pudding than a 30-minute soak. Brioche produces the richest, most indulgent version; the traditional New Orleans long French roll produces a slightly firmer pudding with good crust contrast. A splash of bourbon in the praline sauce (2 tablespoons, added with the vanilla) is a widely loved variation and is essentially standard in New Orleans restaurant versions.
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