Polo ba na'nā

Fragrant Persian steamed rice layered with fresh spearmint and dill: finished with the tahdig crust that defines Iran's greatest culinary achievement

Origin: Persia / Iran

From the journey of Mint.

Persian rice, polo (پلو), is one of the world's great culinary achievements, and the technique of steamed rice with a crisp bottom crust (tahdig) is among the most sophisticated grain preparations in any culinary tradition. The principle of sabzi polo, herb rice, involves layering the partially cooked rice with fresh herbs so the herbs steam into the rice, suffusing each grain with fragrance without losing the herbs' brightness. Na'nā (spearmint) is one of the classic herb combinations for polo, typically paired with dill (shevid) in a ratio that balances the mint's assertive sweetness against the dill's anise freshness. Polo ba na'nā is traditionally served with lamb; completing the ancient Perso-Islamic pairing of mint and lamb that runs from the earliest cookbook manuscripts through to the modern Iranian table. The tahdig (literally 'bottom of the pot'): the crisp, golden layer of rice at the base of the pot, released inverted onto the platter; is the most prized part of the dish: a textural counterpoint to the fragrant steamed rice above, golden and slightly crunchy, perfumed with the mint and dill that have settled to the bottom during cooking.

Ingredients

rice

400 g basmati rice, rinsed until water runs clear and soaked in cold salted water for 30 minutes

herbs

1 large bunch fresh spearmint (na'nā), leaves only, roughly chopped, approximately 30g
1 large bunch fresh dill (shevid), fronds only, roughly chopped, approximately 30g

fat

60 g unsalted butter, cubed, or 4 tbsp neutral oil for a dairy-free version

seasoning

2 tbsp fine sea salt, for the par-boiling water

saffron

0.5 tsp saffron threads, bloomed in 3 tbsp hot water (optional, for colour and fragrance)

tahdig

2 tbsp plain yogurt or 1 egg yolk (for binding the tahdig layer)

Method

Drain the soaked rice. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a rapid boil (it should taste like the sea). Add the rice and cook for exactly 5-6 minutes; it should be cooked on the outside but with a visible white core when you bite through a grain. Drain immediately and rinse briefly with warm water.
In the same pot (dried), melt half the butter over medium heat. Mix 2 large spoonfuls of the par-cooked rice with the yogurt (or egg yolk) and the saffron water if using. Press this mixture into the base of the pot in an even layer; this is your tahdig.
Mix the remaining par-cooked rice with the chopped mint and dill. Pile this herb rice over the tahdig layer in a dome shape; do not press down. Poke 5-6 holes through the mound with the handle of a spoon to allow steam to escape.
Dot the remaining butter over the top of the rice dome. Wrap the pot lid in a clean tea towel (or kitchen paper) and cover the pot: the cloth absorbs condensation and prevents it from dripping back onto the rice. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, then reduce to the lowest possible heat and cook for a further 35-40 minutes.
To unmould: remove the lid and place a large flat platter over the pot. In one confident movement, invert the pot so the tahdig slides out golden-side-up onto the platter. If it doesn't release immediately, hold the base of the pot briefly over a cold, wet cloth: the thermal shock releases the crust.

Notes

Na'nā specifically means spearmint in Persian. Peppermint would be too aggressive for this dish. The ratio of mint to dill is a matter of personal preference; equal quantities is a good starting point, but many Persian cooks use more dill. Polo ba na'nā is the traditional accompaniment to Shirin polo (sweet rice with orange peel and carrots) at Nowruz (Persian New Year), and also pairs classically with lamb or chicken kebab. The tahdig can also be made with sliced flatbread or sliced potato instead of the yogurt-rice layer.

The Gastrographer

Name: Polo ba na'nā
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 1 h
Total time: 1 h 20 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: Persia / Iran
Ingredients: 400 g basmati rice, rinsed until water runs clear and soaked in cold salted water for 30 minutes; 1 large bunch fresh spearmint (na'nā), leaves only, roughly chopped, approximately 30g; 1 large bunch fresh dill (shevid), fronds only, roughly chopped, approximately 30g; 60 g unsalted butter, cubed, or 4 tbsp neutral oil for a dairy-free version; 2 tbsp fine sea salt, for the par-boiling water; 0.5 tsp saffron threads, bloomed in 3 tbsp hot water (optional, for colour and fragrance); 2 tbsp plain yogurt or 1 egg yolk (for binding the tahdig layer)

Mapping Culinary History

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control