Pisto Manchego

La Mancha's slow-cooked summer vegetable stew of sweet peppers, courgette, onion, and tomato, softened in olive oil and crowned with a fried egg

Origin: Spain

From the journey of Bell Pepper.

Pisto is the Spanish member of the great Mediterranean family of slow-cooked summer vegetable stews, kin to the French ratatouille, the Italian ciambotta, and the Maghrebi chakchouka, and its heartland is La Mancha, the hot dry plateau south of Madrid. Its principle is patience: peppers, onion, courgette, and tomato are cooked separately or in sequence in a generous quantity of olive oil, over a low heat and for a long time, until each has surrendered its water and collapsed into sweetness, and only then are they brought together. The sweet pepper is the foundation and the point of difference; where ratatouille leans on the aubergine, pisto is built on peppers, and the dish is sometimes called simply pisto de pimientos. It is eaten hot or at room temperature, as a first course, as a tapa on bread, as a filling for empanadas, and above all in its classic form as pisto con huevo, with a fried egg set on top whose yolk is broken into the vegetables. Cheap, seasonal, and entirely dependent on the quality of the oil and the slowness of the cooking, it is one of the most characteristic dishes of the Spanish interior.

Ingredients

Pisto

  • 2 whole green bell peppers, diced
  • 1 whole red bell pepper, diced
  • 2 whole onions, finely chopped
  • 2 whole courgettes, diced
  • 800 g ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped (or good tinned)
  • 120 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp sweet pimentón (smoked paprika), optional
  • 1 tsp sugar, if the tomatoes are sharp
  • 1 to taste salt and black pepper

To Serve

  • 4 whole eggs, to serve

Method

  1. Heat most of the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over a low heat and cook the onions gently for 10 minutes, until soft and translucent but not coloured. Add the diced peppers and cook for a further 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  2. Add the courgette and a good pinch of salt and cook for 10 minutes more, until it has softened and given up its water.
  3. Stir in the tomatoes and the pimentón if using, and simmer, uncovered, for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the tomatoes have broken down completely and the pisto is thick, glossy, and no longer releases liquid when you draw a spoon across the base of the pan.
  4. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Let the pisto sit off the heat for at least 10 minutes before serving, as it improves as it settles.
  5. Fry the eggs in the remaining olive oil until the whites are set and the edges lacy, and set one on each portion of pisto. Serve with plenty of bread.

Notes

Purists in La Mancha fry each vegetable separately and combine them at the end, which gives a cleaner, more distinct result and is worth the extra pans if you have them. Aubergine is added in some regions, which brings the dish very close to ratatouille; Manchego tradition tends to leave it out. Beyond the fried egg, pisto is served with fried slices of jamón or morcilla, spooned into empanadas, used as a base for baked fish, or spread on toast as a tapa. Good olive oil and genuinely ripe tomatoes matter more here than technique.

The Gastrographer

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