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Californian pistachio and Meyer lemon curd tart in a buttery shortcrust with a pistachio praline topping
Origin: California, United States
From the journey of Pistachio.
California is now the world's second-largest pistachio-producing region, surpassed only by Iran. The story of how a nut so deeply rooted in Persian culture came to define the agriculture of the San Joaquin Valley traces a single thread: in 1929, W.E. Whitehouse, a USDA plant explorer, gathered seeds from the Chehel Sotoun garden in Isfahan and from the bazaars of Tehran, bringing them back to California for evaluation. From these Iranian seed collections, the variety that thrived in the Californian conditions (renamed 'Kerman' after the Iranian city whose orchards had been among Whitehouse's sources) became the basis for the entire American industry. Commercial cultivation expanded slowly until 1979, when the Iranian Revolution ended Iranian pistachio exports to the United States almost overnight, and the California industry found itself with both the supply capacity and the suddenly vacated market it needed to expand rapidly. The San Joaquin Valley counties of Kern, Tulare, and Fresno today produce the majority of the American crop, and the Kerman variety remains dominant. California's culinary culture, shaped by the proximity of extraordinary produce, the influence of Californian cuisine's reverence for local ingredients, and the presence of Persian, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean diaspora communities who brought pistachio-centred cooking traditions with them, embraced the pistachio as a defining local product in the 1990s and 2000s. The pistachio and Meyer lemon tart (the Meyer lemon, cultivated in California since the early 20th century, being the state's other signature citrus) represents this Californian synthesis: a French-influenced pastry form filled with the bright, floral curd of a California-grown citrus and topped with the caramelised crunch of a local pistachio praline.
Meyer lemons, a cross between a lemon and a mandarin or sweet orange, have a rounder, more floral acidity than standard Eureka or Lisbon lemons and a much thinner skin. They are widely grown in California but may be harder to source elsewhere; standard lemons with a slightly reduced quantity (90 ml juice rather than 120 ml) and an additional strip of orange zest in the curd make a very good substitute. The praline can be made up to a week in advance and stored in an airtight container; scatter it over the tart only at the last moment to preserve the crunch.
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