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Bhutanese pork belly simmered with dried red chillies and white radish until the fat softens and the broth turns fierce
Origin: Thimphu & the Bhutanese Himalaya
From the journey of Chilli Pepper.
Phaksha is pork and paa is the word for a dish of sliced meat cooked with chillies, and between them they describe most of what happens: pork belly cut into broad strips, simmered with a great many dried red chillies, and given body by white radish cut into wedges. It is the winter counterpart to ema datshi, and where that dish is fresh green chillies and cheese, this one is dried red chillies and fat. The dried chilli is a seasonal necessity turned into a flavour. Bhutan sun-dries its summer crop on rooftops and balconies through the autumn, and from those strings comes the deeper, smokier, less grassy heat that runs through the country's cold-weather cooking. Fresh and dried are not treated as interchangeable, and a Bhutanese cook asked to make phaksha paa with green chillies would consider it a different dish. The radish earns its place by what it does to the fat. Pork belly simmered on its own gives a heavy broth; the radish absorbs a good deal of that richness, softens to translucency, and returns a clean sweetness that cuts through. Turnip is used interchangeably in the higher valleys, and dried spinach or river weed replaces both in some households. It is a plain, unfussy dish, cooked in one pot with no browning and very few ingredients, and it belongs to a kitchen at altitude where fuel is worth conserving and fat is worth eating. It is served with red rice and with more chillies on the side, in case anyone finds it mild.
Dried chillies rather than fresh, since the two are not interchangeable here and the smoky depth is the point of the dish. Do not brown the pork: this is a boiled dish, and browning gives a heavier, sweeter result that is not what a Bhutanese kitchen produces. The radish goes in late so it keeps its shape and its sweetness. Skim carefully in the first minutes, because everything after that depends on a broth that is clean under the fat. Turnip is a standard alternative to the radish in the higher valleys, and dried spinach can replace both.
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