Pesce all'Acqua Pazza

A whole fish poached gently in 'crazy water', a light, fragrant broth of tomato, garlic, oregano, white wine, and olive oil, the simple genius of the Neapolitan fisherman's kitchen, the herb-scented liquor as good as the fish itself

Origin: Naples and the Amalfi Coast, Italy

From the journey of Oregano.

Acqua pazza, 'crazy water', is one of the great improvisations of the southern Italian coast: the fishermen of the Bay of Naples and the islands would poach the small, unsellable fish from their catch in seawater with a few cherry tomatoes, a little garlic, chilli, and oregano, making a meal from almost nothing. The name is variously explained, by the cloudy, agitated look of the simmering broth or by the cheap wine 'baptised' with water that went into it, but the dish endures because it is so good: the gentle poaching keeps the fish moist and sweet, while the broth takes on the tomato, the garlic, and above all the oregano, becoming a fragrant soup to be sopped up with bread. It is the Mediterranean partnership of tomato and oregano at its lightest and most elegant.

Ingredients

Fish

1 whole white fish (sea bream or sea bass, about 600g), scaled and gutted (or 2 fillets)

Broth

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, sliced
250 g cherry tomatoes, halved
1.5 tbsp dried oregano
1 small dried red chilli, crumbled (optional)
100 ml dry white wine
150 ml water
1 tsp salt

To finish

2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Method

Pat the fish dry and season it inside and out with salt. In a deep pan wide enough to hold the fish, warm the olive oil over medium heat and gently fry the garlic for a minute until fragrant but not coloured.
Add the cherry tomatoes, half the oregano, and the chilli if using. Cook for 5 minutes until the tomatoes begin to collapse.
Pour in the white wine and let it bubble for 2 minutes, then add the water and the salt to make the 'crazy water' broth. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Lay the fish into the simmering broth, spoon some of the liquid and tomatoes over it, cover, and poach gently for 12 to 15 minutes (less for fillets), until the flesh is opaque and pulls easily from the bone.
Scatter over the remaining oregano and the parsley. Serve the fish in shallow bowls with plenty of the broth and tomatoes spooned around, and good bread to soak it up.

Notes

Any firm white fish works; a whole fish gives the best-flavoured broth, but fillets are quicker and easier to serve. The dish is endlessly adaptable: add clams or mussels, a handful of olives or capers, or a little more chilli. The defining flavours are the gentle poaching, the sweet tomato, and the oregano; keep them in balance and do not let the broth reduce to a heavy sauce.

The Gastrographer

Name: Pesce all'Acqua Pazza
Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 25 min
Total time: 40 min
Yield: 2
Cuisine: Italy
Ingredients: 1 whole white fish (sea bream or sea bass, about 600g), scaled and gutted (or 2 fillets); 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil; 3 cloves garlic, sliced; 250 g cherry tomatoes, halved; 1.5 tbsp dried oregano; 1 small dried red chilli, crumbled (optional); 100 ml dry white wine; 150 ml water; 1 tsp salt; 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control