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The Tiv soup of Benue: strips of unripe pawpaw dried in the sun, then simmered with palm oil, ground egusi, and beef, and eaten with pounded yam
Origin: Makurdi & the Benue Valley, Nigeria
From the journey of Papaya.
Nigeria calls the papaya pawpaw, in the British usage, and Yoruba calls it ibepe. It came to West Africa with the Portuguese in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, along the same sea roads that brought the chilli, the groundnut, and the cassava, and it has been growing wild around compounds ever since, bearing fruit within a year of a seed being dropped. Most of it is eaten ripe and raw. The Tiv of Benue State, in the valley that Nigeria calls the food basket of the nation, do something else with it: they take the fruit unripe, cut it into thin strips, dry it in the sun, and cook it as a vegetable in soup. Drying concentrates the flesh and gives it a slightly chewy, almost meaty texture that fresh green papaya does not have, and it also makes the crop keep, which matters where the tree fruits all at once and the market is a long walk away. The soup itself is built the way the soups of the middle belt and the south-east are built: palm oil, ground egusi melon seed to thicken, beef and its stock, onion, and heat. It is eaten with a swallow, pounded yam or eba, and is a dish of the home and the compound rather than the restaurant, which is why the written record of it is thin.
Fresh green pawpaw can be used without drying and takes about eight minutes to cook, but the texture is softer and less interesting. Egusi is the seed of a bitter melon relative, not of the sweet melon; buy it already hulled and grind it dry.
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