Patatas bravas

Spain's beloved fried potatoes with fierce chilli-paprika sauce: the tapas bar essential

Origin: Spain (Madrid)

From the journey of Chilli Pepper.

Patatas bravas (literally 'fierce potatoes') is arguably the single dish that best illustrates the transformation the chilli pepper worked on Spanish cuisine after Columbus returned in 1493. The sauce, built on the ground, dried, and smoked version of chilli that Spain developed into pimentón (paprika), is the bold, red, unmistakably Spanish condiment that defines the tapas tradition. Spain did not adopt fresh chilli with the enthusiasm that South and Southeast Asia did; instead, the Spanish dried, smoked, and ground their chillies into the pimentón that became synonymous with Spanish identity. Pimentón de la Vera (the smoked paprika from Extremadura, dried over oak fires) and pimentón de Murcia (sweet) are the two great Spanish paprika styles, and both are essential to Spanish cooking in a way that has no parallel in other European cuisines. Patatas bravas originated in Madrid in the 20th century and is now the quintessential tapas dish: thick-cut fried potatoes, crisp outside and yielding within, served with a spicy-smoky sauce. No tapas bar in Spain is without them, and the sauce recipe is the point of fierce local pride and perpetual argument.

Ingredients

Potatoes

  • 800 g floury potatoes (such as Maris Piper or King Edward), peeled and cut into 3cm cubes

Frying

  • Olive oil or vegetable oil, for frying

Seasoning

  • 1 tsp fine salt

Sauce

  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small onion, very finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp pimentón picante (hot smoked paprika)
  • 1 tsp pimentón dulce (sweet smoked paprika)
  • 0.5 tsp cayenne pepper (for extra heat)
  • 200 ml passata or crushed tinned tomatoes
  • 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
  • 0.5 tsp sugar
  • 0.5 tsp salt

Method

  1. Make the sauce: heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook the onion for 8 minutes until soft. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add all the paprika and cayenne, stir for 30 seconds.
  2. Add the passata, sherry vinegar, sugar, and salt. Simmer for 10 minutes until thickened. Blend until smooth. Taste and adjust heat and seasoning.
  3. Par-boil the potato cubes in well-salted water for 8 minutes until just tender but still holding their shape. Drain and dry thoroughly on a kitchen towel.
  4. Heat 3cm of oil in a deep heavy pan to 180°C. Fry the potatoes in batches for 5–6 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper. Season immediately with salt.
  5. Pile the hot potatoes onto a plate. Spoon the bravas sauce over generously: or serve the sauce alongside for dipping. Serve immediately.

Notes

The bravas sauce keeps for a week in the fridge and is excellent with fried eggs, grilled chicken, or smeared on bread as a Spanish-style condiment. Some Madrid bars use a mayonnaise-based sauce instead of or alongside the tomato bravas: this is also traditional and produces a milder, richer result. For a restaurant-quality finish, double-fry the potatoes: first at 150°C to cook through, then at 190°C for a final 2 minutes to crisp the exterior.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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