Panis Quadratus (bread of Pompeii)

The round scored bread of ancient Pompeii

Origin: Roman Empire (Pompeii)

From the journey of Barley.

Panis Quadratus ('square bread') is the most famous loaf in history, preserved in near-perfect condition by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 CE at Pompeii. A carbonised loaf discovered in the bakery of Modestus (one of 35 bakeries in Pompeii) is now in the Naples National Archaeological Museum; its distinctive shape (round, scored into eight wedge-like sections) is unmistakable. Analysis of Pompeian bread reveals a mixture of wheat and barley flour, sometimes with spelt, and the inclusion of a leavening agent (likely sourdough starter). The loaf's scoring allowed it to be easily broken at table by hand into portions: Roman dining custom did not use knives for bread. This recipe follows the form and documented composition of the Modestus loaf as closely as a modern kitchen allows.

Ingredients

Main

200 g strong white bread flour (about 1⅔ cups)
150 g barley flour (about 1¼ cups)
100 g spelt flour (about ¾ cup, or substitute more bread flour)

Leaven

7 g dried instant yeast (1 sachet)

Seasoning

1 tsp fine salt

Enrichment

1 tsp honey
1 tbsp olive oil

Liquid

250 ml warm water (approximately)

Method

Combine all flours, yeast, and salt. Add the honey, olive oil, and warm water. Mix to a dough and knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth and elastic.
Shape into a round ball. Place in an oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour until roughly doubled.
Preheat oven to 230°C (450°F) with a baking stone or heavy baking sheet inside.
Shape the dough into a round disc (not a high ball, the Roman loaf was relatively flat, about 5–6 cm tall). Tie a piece of string around the circumference of the loaf at the equator, this creates the characteristic indentation. Then score from the top centre outward to the string line in 8 equal sections, like a wheel.
Transfer to the hot baking stone. Bake for 30–35 minutes until the crust is deep brown and the base sounds hollow when tapped.
Remove the string. Allow to cool for 20 minutes before breaking along the scored sections.

Notes

This bread has a wonderfully dense, slightly nutty crumb from the barley and spelt. Eat it as a Roman would: torn into sections, dipped in olive oil with a pinch of sea salt, alongside olives, cured meat, or hard cheese. The round scored form is distinctive and ancient: you are baking the exact shape that emerged from Roman bakeries 2,000 years ago.

The Gastrographer

Name: Panis Quadratus (bread of Pompeii)
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 35 min
Total time: 1 h 55 min
Yield: 8
Cuisine: Roman Empire
Ingredients: 200 g strong white bread flour (about 1⅔ cups); 150 g barley flour (about 1¼ cups); 100 g spelt flour (about ¾ cup, or substitute more bread flour); 7 g dried instant yeast (1 sachet); 1 tsp fine salt; 1 tsp honey; 250 ml warm water (approximately); 1 tbsp olive oil

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control