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the Swedish rosehip soup: hips gathered after the frosts, simmered and sieved free of their irritant hairs, thickened lightly with potato flour, and served with whipped cream and almond biscuits
Origin: Sweden
From the journey of Rose.
Sweden is far too cold for the damask rose to be worth distilling, so Scandinavia took the other half of the plant and built a substantial tradition on the hip alone. Wild dog roses grow along every field margin and, on the Baltic sands, the naturalised Rosa rugosa bears hips several times the size; both are gathered after the first frosts, when the cold has broken down the flesh and drawn out the sweetness, under the same right of public access that governs berries and mushrooms. Nyponsoppa is what Sweden makes of them, and it occupies a category that puzzles visitors, because it is called a soup, is served in a bowl, and is unmistakably a pudding. Smooth, tawny-pink, faintly tart, and thickened only lightly with potato flour, it is eaten hot through the winter and cold in summer, with a spoonful of whipped cream sinking into the middle, a scattering of flaked almonds, and the crisp almond biscuits called mandelbiskvier or simply a plain skorpa alongside. It is a fixture of school canteens, ski lodges, and hospital trays, sold in cartons in every supermarket, and made at home from the dried hips that every Swedish larder keeps.
Dried rosehips are sold by Scandinavian and health-food shops and are what most Swedish households actually use, since the fresh season is short; the flavour is deeper and slightly more caramelised than fresh. If gathering your own, take them after a frost, or freeze them overnight to the same effect, and never gather from busy roadsides or sprayed hedges. The consistency is a matter of taste and of household: some families like it barely thickened and drinkable, others almost like a thin custard, and the potato flour can be adjusted either way. Norway, Denmark, and Finland make close relations under their own names, and the same purée, left unthickened and frozen, makes an excellent sorbet. Leftovers keep four days refrigerated and thicken further as they cool.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
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