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the little hazelnut crescents of the Austrian Christmas plate: a tender ground-nut shortbread shaped into crescents, baked pale, and rolled while warm in vanilla sugar
Origin: Austria
From the journey of Hazelnut.
The Kipferl, the little crescent, is one of the oldest and most emblematic shapes of Austrian baking, and the nut crescent, the Nusskipferl (close kin to the German and Hungarian Vanillekipferl and to the Kourabiedes of the Greek table), is a fixture of the Christmas Keksteller, the plate of home-made biscuits set out through Advent and over the festival. It is a plain, tender, short biscuit made rich with ground nuts in place of much of the flour, so that it is fragile and melting and deeply flavoured; hazelnut and almond are both traditional, and the toasted hazelnut gives the warmest, most fragrant version. The dough is shaped by hand into small crescents, in memory, tradition says, of the crescent standard of the Ottoman armies turned to a Christian sweet after the siege of Vienna, and the biscuits are baked pale and gold, then rolled while still warm in vanilla-scented icing sugar so that they emerge under a soft white coat. Made in great batches in the weeks before Christmas and stored in tins, the Nusskipferl are shared amongst family and neighbours and are, for many Austrians, the very taste of the festival.
Ground almonds, or a mixture of hazelnuts and almonds, can replace the hazelnuts for a Vanillekipferl; the toasted hazelnut simply gives a deeper flavour. The biscuits keep beautifully for two or three weeks in an airtight tin, which is why they are made early in Advent, and they are traditionally part of a mixed plate of Christmas Kekse. A little grated lemon zest in the dough is a common variation.
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