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the dipping sauce that appears at nearly every Vietnamese meal: fish sauce, sugar, and water balanced with fresh lime juice and hung with slivered garlic and chilli, mixed by taste and never cooked
Origin: Vietnam
From the journey of Lime.
Vietnamese cooking is unusual in handing the final seasoning of a meal to the person eating it. Very little arrives fully dressed: a bowl of phở comes with a plate of herbs, sprouts, chilli, and a wedge of chanh; a plate of grilled meat comes with a saucer of salt and pepper into which a lime is squeezed at the table; and the sourness of a Vietnamese meal is therefore individual rather than fixed. At the centre of that practice stands nước chấm, which means simply dipping liquid and is the single most characteristic thing in the cuisine. Its base is nước mắm, the fermented anchovy sauce of Phú Quốc and Phan Thiết, which is far too salty and too insistent to be used neat; it is let down with water and sugar and then, crucially, cut with lime juice. The acid is what makes the whole thing work, tempering the salt and the sweetness together and lifting what would otherwise be merely briny into something bright and clean. Every household has its own proportions and none of them are measured; the cook mixes, tastes, and adjusts, and a Vietnamese cook will tell you that the balance changes with the dish it accompanies, sharper for fried food and softer for a bowl of rice noodles.
The proportions here are a middle course; northern Vietnamese versions are paler, saltier, and much less sweet, whilst southern ones carry considerably more sugar, and both are correct. For bún chả and the noodle bowls the sauce is diluted further, roughly by half, since a whole ladleful is poured over the noodles rather than dipped into. Rice vinegar is sometimes substituted for part of the lime, particularly out of season, but the fresh juice is much better and is what the sauce is built on. A vegetarian version replaces the fish sauce with light soy and a little salt, and is called nước chấm chay. The sauce keeps for three days refrigerated but is markedly best within the hour, and Vietnamese cooks mix it fresh for each meal as a matter of course.
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