Nasi Tumpeng

A towering cone of golden turmeric rice, moulded into the shape of a sacred mountain and surrounded by an array of side dishes: fried chicken, tempeh, boiled egg, stir-fried vegetables and sambal. The centrepiece of every major Javanese and Balinese ceremony, from births and weddings to harvests and national celebrations.

Origin: Java & Bali, Indonesia

From the journey of Rice.

Nasi tumpeng predates Hinduism's arrival in Java and Bali: the cone shape represents the sacred mountain Mahameru (Mount Semeru), the axis of the universe in both Hindu-Buddhist and Javanese animist cosmology. The surrounding dishes represent the abundance of the earth at its base. On Indonesian Independence Day (17 August), nasi tumpeng is prepared in homes and offices across the archipelago. Tradition holds that the tip of the cone is cut and offered to the most honoured guest as a mark of respect.

Ingredients

  • 500 g jasmine rice, washed
  • 400 ml coconut milk
  • 300 ml water
  • 3 cm fresh turmeric, grated (or 2 tsp ground)
  • 2 Lemongrass stalks, bruised
  • 2 Pandan leaves, knotted
  • 3 Kaffir lime leaves
  • 1.5 tsp salt
  • to serve Fried chicken pieces (ayam goreng)
  • to serve Tempeh, sliced and fried
  • to serve Hard-boiled eggs, halved
  • to serve Sambal oelek
  • to serve Stir-fried green beans with coconut

Method

  1. Blend or grate the fresh turmeric with a little water to make a paste. Strain to get just the juice.
  2. Combine rice, coconut milk, water, turmeric juice, lemongrass, pandan, kaffir lime leaves and salt in a heavy pot. Bring to the boil, then reduce to the lowest heat and cover tightly.
  3. Cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes; do not lift the lid.
  4. Remove the aromatics. The rice should be fragrant, golden and each grain separate.
  5. Press the hot rice firmly into a cone-shaped tumpeng mould (or a large bowl or funnel lined with cling film). Pack tightly. Let rest for 5 minutes.
  6. Invert onto a serving plate lined with banana leaves. The cone should hold its shape cleanly.
  7. Arrange all side dishes around the base of the cone. Garnish with crispy shallots and fresh herbs.
The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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