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Indonesia's national fried rice: cold rice stir-fried with kecap manis (sweet soy), shrimp paste, garlic, shallot and chilli, crowned with a fried egg with lacey, crisp edges: impossibly savoury, faintly sweet, with a depth that comes from the funky fermented paste beneath
Origin: Java, Indonesia
From the journey of Rice.
Nasi goreng (literally 'fried rice' in Malay/Indonesian) is Indonesia's national dish and its most globally recognised food, voted repeatedly as one of the world's most delicious dishes in international surveys. Its genius is not complexity but flavour depth: the combination of kecap manis (thick, sweet soy sauce fermented with palm sugar) and terasi (fermented shrimp paste, belacan in Malay) creates an umami and sweetness combination that no other fried rice in the world replicates. The technique is authentically Indonesian street-food style: wok over very high heat, everything happens fast, the rice hits a heavily seasoned base and caramelises in the kecap manis. The fried egg on top; with those lacey, crunchy-edged whites from a very hot wok; is non-negotiable. Nasi goreng exists in hundreds of regional variations across Indonesia's 17,000 islands, from the Javanese version (sweeter, milder) to the Ambonese (more aromatic, with spices), but the combination of kecap manis and terasi defines them all.
The terasi (fermented shrimp paste) is the umami backbone of nasi goreng and should not be omitted or substituted if at all possible. It is available at Indonesian, Malaysian, Thai and general Asian grocery stores. Store it wrapped tightly in two layers of plastic bags in the refrigerator; it keeps for months. The 'secret' of restaurant-quality nasi goreng is simply very high heat. If your wok is not smoking hot when the rice goes in, you will get steamed-and-stewed rice rather than fried rice.
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