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India's after-dinner mouth freshener: fennel seed roasted and sugar-coated with sesame, coconut and rose, set out in a dish by the door
Origin: Ahmedabad, Gujarat & Western India
From the journey of Fennel.
Mukhwas means mouth freshener, and it is one of the few uses of a spice anywhere in the world that has no real parallel: a dish of seeds, sugared and coloured, set out to be taken by the pinch at the end of a meal and chewed slowly. Every Indian restaurant keeps a bowl by the door, most households keep a tin, and the fixed centre of the mixture is fennel. The reasoning behind it is digestive and is at least partly sound. Anethole, the aromatic in fennel, is mildly antispasmodic, and fennel has been eaten after food for that reason from Pliny onwards. In the Ayurvedic scheme fennel is classed as a cooling spice, which is also why Gujarat, which is very hot for a large part of the year, uses more of it than anywhere else. Whether chewing a teaspoon of seed after dinner does anything measurable is a smaller question than the sheer consistency of the habit. What goes in beyond the fennel varies by household and by region. Sesame and desiccated coconut for body, ajwain or carom for sharpness, dried melon seed, a few threads of rose or a drop of rose water, and often the sugar-coated fennel called dhana dal's cousin, saunf goli, in its startling pastel colours. The tricolour version sold commercially owes its greens and pinks to food colouring and nothing else. A note about the silver. Some commercial mukhwas is finished with vark, the edible silver leaf also used on sweets, and some of what circulates is aluminium rather than silver; the distinction matters and reputable sellers state it. This recipe leaves it out.
The whole thing turns on roasting the fennel to exactly the right point and no further; take the pan off early rather than late and tip the seed onto a cold plate immediately. Roast each seed separately, since they toast at very different rates. The syrup should crystallise back into a powdery frosting rather than setting into a glaze, so keep stirring as it cools. It keeps for three months in an airtight tin and loses its aroma once opened repeatedly, so store it in something small. Leave the silver leaf out unless you can be certain of its provenance.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
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