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The Maghrebi summer afternoon: cold watermelon fragrant with orange blossom water and scattered with fresh spearmint, a preparation that distils the North African flavour palette into its simplest form
Origin: Morocco (Marrakesh, Fez, and the Atlantic Coast)
From the journey of Watermelon.
Arab traders and horticulturalists, carrying watermelon seeds across North Africa during the Islamic Golden Age, established watermelon cultivation throughout the Maghreb (Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya), where the hot, dry summers of the Mediterranean and Atlantic coastal lowlands produced fruits of extraordinary sweetness. Orange blossom water (ma' al-zahar), distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), is one of the foundational aromatics of Moroccan cookery, used in pastries (baklava, briouats), in the mint tea ceremony, and in fruit preparations across the country. Fresh spearmint (nana), a cultivar particularly associated with Morocco, is used in every glass of Moroccan atay (mint tea). The combination of cold watermelon, fragrant orange blossom water, and spearmint captures the three-part Moroccan flavour aesthetic of sweetness, perfume, and herbal freshness, and is served throughout the day in the summer months, from breakfast tables in Fez to beachside cafes on the Atlantic coast.
Orange blossom water (ma' al-zahar) is available at Middle Eastern, French, and North African food stores and widely online. Avoid orange extract and orange oil, which are far more concentrated and will overwhelm the dish. The culinary argan oil should be food-grade cold-pressed oil, not cosmetic argan oil, which is processed differently and is not suitable for eating. Culinary argan oil is available from specialist Moroccan food importers and some large supermarkets.
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